Spiders and Snakes: Are Pigs Immune To Their Bites

Spider and Snake Bites in Pigs - information on spider bites, snake bites, and how to respond in both cases. The importance of seeking immediate veterinary care for both types of bites.

Spider Bites: Most spider bites are minor, but some, such as the black widow, brown widow, and brown recluse spiders, can be dangerous. Symptoms of a bite from one of these might include initial swelling and redness, followed by intense pain, abdominal pain, and sweating.  

Brown recluse spiders are commonly found indoors in dark areas like closets, cellars, and under furniture. Black widow and brown widow spiders can be found hiding under things such as tables, chairs, the base of potted plants and under the lip of kiddie pools.

Brown Widow Spider under lip of a kiddie pool.

Treatment involves cleaning the wound, applying a cool compress, over-the-counter pain relievers, and prompt medical attention if symptoms worsen or the bite's source is unknown.

Swollen hand from Brown Widow Spider bite.

 

 

To my knowledge none of my pigs have ever been bitten by a spider. However, one got me a couple of years ago when I grabbed the kiddie pool to flip it over for cleaning. It was extremely painful.
 

Snake Bites: It's a dangerous misconception that pigs are immune to snake bites. While they may have some natural defenses, they are not immune. While pigs possess a thicker layer of skin and a substantial layer of adipose tissue (fat) which can slow the absorption of venom into the bloodstream. This provides a degree of resistance, not immunity. This adipose tissue acts as a buffer, making it harder for the venom to reach blood vessels quickly.

Venom still reaches the bloodstream, and bites in areas with less fat are more dangerous. Pigs' natural inclination to kill snakes highlights the importance of treating every snake as potentially venomous. Prevention involves recognizing local snake species, and assuming any bite is venomous. Key actions include restricting the pig's movement, immobilizing the bite area, keeping the pig calm, and immediately seeking veterinary attention.

Treatment Recommendations: Do not attempt to capture or kill the snake. Avoid cutting the bite wound, applying ice packs/tourniquets, or administering any medication without veterinary guidance. Prompt veterinary care is critical. Antivenom is a primary treatment (if available), though it can be expensive and has potential allergic reactions. The goal with snake bites is to slow venom spread.

Identification: It can be a challenge to distinguish between venomous and harmless snakes, thus treat all snakes as potentially dangerous. You can use a few identification tips, including checking eye shape, head shape, presence of heat-sensing pits, and rattles. But, if you are like me, I don't want to get that close. Understanding bite marks, noting close puncture marks from fangs, and ragged bite marks from non-venomous snakes, can also help determine if a snake was poisonous.

The snakes pictured below are both from my yard. I had never heard of the Coach Whip and with some research after taking this picture was able to find that it is not interested in attacking one of my pigs. It is hunting small rodents like mice, rats and squirrels. The Coral Snake is the second one that I have seen in my yard in a couple of months. A neighbor killed the first one. This one slithered away.

 

Coach Whip Snake

Coral Snake

 

Key Takeaways:  Both spider and snake bites can pose serious risks to pigs. Prompt veterinary intervention, proper first aid, and a cautious approach to both animals are crucial. 

Understanding local snakes and treating every snake as a potential threat are vital for pig safety.

 

How To Keep My Mini Pig From Tipping Its Water Bowl

Having a pig that constantly flips its water bowl can be frustrating. Not only does it create a mess, but it can also leave your pig without access to fresh water. However, there are several strategies you can try to encourage your pig to stop this behavior.

If you're a pig owner, you may have experienced the frustrating sight of your pig flipping his water bowl over and over again. Not only is this behavior messy and wasteful, but it can also lead to dehydration and other health issues for your pig. But fear not, there are ways to help curb this behavior and keep your pig hydrated and happy.

1. Secure the Water Bowl:
One effective way to prevent your pig from flipping its water bowl is to secure it in place. Consider using a heavy ceramic or metal bowl that is difficult for your pig to tip over. Alternatively, you can attach the bowl to the wall or side of their enclosure using clips or bungee cords to keep it stable.

2. Use a Waterer with a Spout:
Another option is to switch to a waterer with a spout instead of a traditional bowl. Pigs are less likely to flip a waterer with a spout since it doesn't easily tip over. This can help ensure that your pig always has access to water without the risk of spills.

3. Monitor and Redirect Behavior:
Keep an eye on your pig's behavior around the water bowl. If you notice it starting to tip or flip the bowl, gently redirect its attention using a verbal cue or offer a distraction such as a treat or toy. Consistent monitoring and redirection can help discourage the unwanted behavior over time.

4. Provide Enrichment and Exercise:
Sometimes, pigs may flip their water bowls out of boredom or excess energy. Make sure your pig has plenty of enrichment activities and opportunities for exercise to keep it mentally and physically stimulated. This can help reduce stress and prevent destructive behaviors like flipping the water bowl.

5. Consult with a Veterinarian:
If your pig continues to flip its water bowl despite trying various strategies, consider consulting with a veterinarian who specializes in pig care. There may be underlying health issues or behavioral reasons contributing to the behavior that require professional guidance.

How do I pig proof my water bowl. A popular question we get is what can I do get my pig to stop flipping his water bowl? If the water bowl is outside one of the heavy duty rubber bowls from your feed/supply store work best. I use those here along with kiddie pools with an area cut down so they can easily drink from it.

 

 

Heavy duty rubber water/feed bowl that is great for outside piggies.

 

Water pail for hanging on the fence.

 

A great DIY is to put the water bowl in a tire.

For the house pig that likes to flip their bowl you might need to get a little more creative as shown in the picture below.

I have seen some pictures of water bowls made of concrete or the bottom filled with concrete. While these make the bowl more difficult for your pig to flip, they also make them more difficult for you to pick up and clean.

Conclusion:
By implementing these tips and being patient with your pig, you can work towards preventing it from flipping its water bowl. Remember that each pig is unique, so it may take some trial and error to find the most effective solution. With time and consistency, you can help your pig develop better habits and ensure its well-being.

Is Your Pig Depressed in Your New Home? Here's What You Need to Know

Moving into a new home is an exciting but also stressful time for everyone involved, including your beloved pet pig. It's not uncommon for animals to experience stress and anxiety during a big change like this, and it's important to recognize the signs that your pig may be feeling a bit down.

Understanding Pig Behavior

Pigs are highly intelligent and social animals that thrive on routine and familiarity. When their environment changes suddenly, they can become stressed and exhibit signs of depression. Some common behaviors that may indicate your pig is feeling down include:

• Isolation: Your pig may start to keep to themselves and avoid interactions with you or other animals in the household.
• Lack of appetite: A depressed pig may lose interest in food or eat significantly less than usual.
• Lethargy: Your pig may seem more tired or less active than usual, opting to spend more time resting or sleeping.
• Vocalization: Some pigs may start to vocalize more or exhibit other unusual vocal behaviors when they are feeling stressed or depressed.

Helping Your Pig Adjust

If you suspect that your pig is feeling depressed in your new home, there are several steps you can take to help them adjust and feel more comfortable:

1. Establish a Routine: Pigs thrive on routine, so try to establish a consistent schedule for feeding, playtime, and other activities.
2. Create a Comfortable Environment: Make sure your pig has a cozy and safe space to retreat to when they need some alone time. Provide plenty of bedding, toys, and enrichment activities to keep them occupied.
3. Offer Comfort and Affection: Spend quality time with your pig, offering them plenty of love and attention to reassure them that they are safe and loved.

 

Bottom line is pigs do not handle change well. Do your best to spend some extra time with them. Changing homes has changed everything that they knew and were familiar with...sights, sounds and of course the usual scent of your previous home. It takes patience...lots of patience and of course love. 

 

Bailey getting used to her new place with her blankie.

 

Vomiting Pig - What To Do

 

My Pig Is Vomiting

If your pig has ever thrown up, you know it! The smell is something you will never forget. Thankfully, most cases of a vomiting pig can be taken care of at home.

Examine the vomit and look for anything foreign; plant material, plastic, dog food, carpet, etc. to get an idea as to why your pig might have thrown up. It is not always going to be obvious.

Your pig might vomit for a number of reasons:

Eating or drinking too fast
Obstruction from constipation
Eating something they shouldn't
Toxins
Car sickness

In most cases a pig will vomit once maybe twice and all is good. Should your pig continue to vomit CALL YOUR VETERINARIAN IMMEDIATELY!

For the pig that has thrown up you want to let the tummy rest. DO NOT give any food or water right away. They should not receive any food for 24 hours. You can offer small amounts (1/4-1/2 cup) of water (room temperature) every 3-4 hours. If they hold down the water you can begin to offer small amounts of bland food (boiled rice, applesauce) or soft pig chow with NO extras. Wait 4 hours before offering more. Continue with the small amounts. As long as there is no vomiting increase the amount over the next couple of days.

If your pig vomits any food or water when reintroduced, you should have your pig examined by a veterinarian immediately.

Pigs and Heat: Ways To Help Them Keep Them Cool

Do you know why it's so important to keep pigs cool in the heat of summer? They don't sweat. Unlike us or dogs, horses, cows and other animals that sweat, the pig does not. While pigs do have a few sweat glands it is not enough for them to maintain a solid body temperature in the heat of summer. When it's hot out, sweating is what keeps us cool. Because pigs do not sweat they can easily overheat, even have a heat stroke and die.

Provide Shade

Outside pigs should always have plenty of shade. The shade can be in forms of plants, a lean to, a tarp, umbrella or a type of shade sail. Any of these will work. Make sure that they have somewhere to go to get out of the sun. It doesn't have to be fancy...it needs to be functional and provide protection from the sun. Protection from the sun is so important for pigs, as the sun can be so harsh in the summertime.

Shade provided by trees, tarp and shade sail.

Did you know that in the shade, it will feel 10-15 degrees cooler, but the temperature is the exact same as temperature in full sunlight. The shade feels cooler because you are avoiding solar radiation. In reality, the temperature in the sun is the same as the temperature in the shade. That being said, solar radiation can make a huge difference in how you might feel about the temperature. When in the shade, your skin is not being “heated” by the sun’s rays, so your skin and your body feel a more comfortable temperature. When you are outside and not under shade of some kind, solar radiation warms the skin and makes your body’s natural ways of cooling down less effective at cooling you down.

Mud Hole / Pool

Make sure that your pig has access to either a pool or mud hole.

These too should be in the shade not sitting directly in the sun. I personally like the mud hole as it provides a couple of benefits for our pigs. The mud helps to keep the pig cool. It's soft and soothing on the pig's skin during the heat of the day. The other benefits are that it works as a sunblock and protects against bugs.

Mud holes may need to be filled up a couple of times a day, especially during the hottest part of summer.

Not able to make a mud hole for your pig because you have sand or sand like dirt? You can still make a make-shift wallow for them. All you need is a kiddie pool, some dirt (clay if it's available) and of course water. Find the place that you want the pool to go. Dig out a few inches of the dirt where the pool will go. Put the pool in and fill with the dirt that you dug out and fill with water. It will take several times before the water stays in the pool, other than being soaked up by the dirt. I have 3 of the here and the pigs love them. 

Porky cooling off in his mud pool.

Each of the pens here include a mud pool, piggy pool and at least two water bowls. Because I'm not always here on some of those hot days I want to make sure that the pigs always have access to a water source. Besides a mud hole, kiddie pools are also available to the pigs here. Kiddie pools work just fine.

For the new pig parent it can be a challenge to get your pig into the pool for the first time. I cut out an opening with a pair of scissors so that the pig can easily get in and out. The pool doesn't need to be filled to the top. Just a couple of inches of water is more than enough for the pig to cool itself off and will make cleaning a bit easier on you. A pool full of water is very difficult to dump. And with young pigs you may need to clean it on a daily basis as they are prone to go potty in the pool. 

Pepper Pig's pool is cut down so she can easily get in and out.

Other ways to help keep your pig cool on those hot summer days. 

On those really hot and humid days we hose down the ground (NOT the pig) where the pigs live so at least the ground is cool. A misting system works well too, though my pigs were not fond of the mist they did enjoy the cool wet ground.

 

Gracie loves rolling around in the wet dirt on hot days.

A fan running on low to keep air circulating will help. By blowing air around, the fan makes it easier for the air to evaporate sweat from your skin, which is how you eliminate body heat. The more evaporation, the cooler you or your pig feels.

Most pigs are not fond of being hosed down, though there are 2 here that will let me do it from time to time. If squirting your pig with the hose please watch where you are pointing the hose. The belly area is what we want to cool them down NOT their back. Watch not to get it in their face or ears. Water in the ears will give them a head tilt.

Rudy getting hosed down.

Remember that the water coming out of your hose can be hot to begin with so give it time to cool down before spraying your pig or filling up pools or water bowls. If you have pigs like mine they will wake up from sleeping to get a drink from a freshly filled bowl or pool or jump in once it's been freshened.

Realize that on the really hot days they won't feel like doing much...so let sleeping pigs lie.

Andrew taking a nap in the shade.

If you think that your pig might be over heating (breathing heavy) you need to cool him down. Spraying him with hose is not what you want to do. The best way to cool down an over heated pig is with a cool/tepid towel or water on his belly and behind the ears if he will let you. I have had two pigs that have needed cooling down. They would not let me put a towel on them, but slowly run the hose on their belly and thus slowly cooling them down and wetting down the ground around them at the same time.

Encourage them to drink WATER. Do not let them run out of water during the day. Just like us, pigs need to stay hydrated. ...only adding some Gatorade or Pedialyte as a 50/50 mixture if necessary.  You might want to offer goodies like watermelon, Popsicle's, frozen grapes and ice cubes in water as summer time treats. Note these are not meant to cool off a pig that is over heating...but as a treat that they will certainly enjoy.

For those that have house pigs they should go out early morning and later in the evening when temps are at their coolest and there is more shade. They are used to the A/C and being out in the heat for too long can cause them to over heat.

You Have A Sick Pig - How to tell if your pig is sick, what to do if your pig is sick.

The best judge of the health of your pig is "YOU". You live with the pig, you see the pigs normal actions on a daily basis. You can tell when things are just a little off with your porcine friend. This is the time to take action as most things if caught in time, won't be fatal to your pig.

A sick pig looks sick! Pigs that do not feel well have a tendency to show it in their coat first. The hair will stand on end all over the pig much like a porcupine effect. Pigs also do this when cold, but not to the same degree.

A pig that is not interested wholeheartedly and one hundred percent in his food is a pig that is not well.  A pig loves to eat, it is the natural way of things. Unlike dogs or cats who will occasionally turn down a meal because it may not suit their taste that day, a pig is not picky. This cannot be stressed enough.

A pig that is not ready to eat is a pig that is not feeling well or is in extreme pain. (The exception to this is the boar pig who seems to have more interest in his testosterone than in the food supply.)

A pig standing with his back hunched and his hind legs far under the body is a sick pig. This is a stance that is seen with constipation, blockage, stomach aches, hernias, urinary tract problems and general pain in the abdominal or genital area.

What problems are most common? The illness of choice for these guys appears to be respiratory problems. There are several different forms of pneumonia's, some more critical than others, but all can be serious. Pneumonia is not always accompanied by coughing. Most of the time the first symptom is just not eating and elevated temperatures. Sometimes with the more serious forms there is labored breathing.

For what we call just plain old pig pneumonia, a good antibiotic shot will make all the difference in the world. Usually after one shot they will be up and eating again by the following day and then can go on to oral antibiotics for a period of five or six days or another shot in 3-4 days. This is a treatment that we use on any pig that decides it does not want to eat and is running a temperature.

If it's not pneumonia then the shot is not going to hurt them and if it is pneumonia the shot can save their lives and give you a head start on fixing the problem. You might ask your vet to dose at the high end of the scale as it appears that a pig takes a good dose to get through to the problem. A pig with pneumonia will run a temperature so first order is to get a temperature on your pig.

Constipation seems to be the second most common problem, especially in the older more sedate pigs. This usually occurs during the winter months when they aren't walking around as much. Sometimes they will give no symptoms at all other than a less than eager appetite and sometimes they will strain to go and pass very little as a result. This is where watching your pig can make the difference. You should know if your pig is going to the bathroom or not. Constipation can be serious with your pig if he does not show symptoms early.

First of all you want to make sure that there is something, even a small amount going through. When and if you determine that there is indeed a small amount being passed than you can try several methods to help him along.

I can't stress strongly enough that you need to make sure first that there is fecal matter being passed. A constipated pig will pass hard balls that crumble when stepped on and they will be few in number.

A few things to help your pig with constipation are Piggy Lax and Bulky Lax Plus. Used on a regular basis will help to keep constipation at bay. Canned pumpkin will help if you haven't been using Piggy Lax or Bulky Lax Plus. In extreme cases Dulcolax suppositories will help. All of these things are to be used ONLY on pigs that you see passing fecal matter. If the pig is not passing anything at all DO NOT USE ANY OF THE THINGS MENTIONED ABOVE as you could be dealing with a blockage instead of constipation. The pig does not usually run a temperature with a constipation problem.

Blockage is serious and life threatening. This is when the pig can't pass anything due to a blockage in the bowels. A pig with a blockage will not eat. They may not strain but they will be lethargic and may dig at the ground continually. The will stand hunkered up with their legs far under the body.

It is imperative that you get medical help for that pig as soon as possible. Most vets will be able to tell with ultrasound or x-ray just where the blockage may be and a blockage usually has to be dealt with using surgery. DO NOT give an enema or laxatives to a pig that is not passing anything as this could cost the pig its life.

By trying to force a blockage out it can rupture the intestine leaving the pig open to peritonitis which can be fatal. A pig with a blockage can go on for several days. He will not eat and is in pain. If it is a blockage his chance of recovery is good if taken to a vet early.

It is very important to remember if there is not stool from the pig DO NOT GIVE AN ENEMA! You must see something coming through before you even think about that treatment. A pig with a blockage will not necessarily run a temperature until the problem has become very serious.

The main tool for you and your vet is the pigs temperature. When a pig does not eat with his usual gusto there is a reason. The temperature can help you and your vet diagnose what the problem may be. This is done in the rectum and is fairly easy for even the novice to handle.

There was a study done on potbellied pigs in 1999. We discovered that the normal resting temperature for potbellied pigs is indeed lower than the commercial farm hogs. If your pig's temperature is 102 then your pig is running a fever and you and your pig need help.

Rudy's temp when he wasn't feeling well and the vet was called to come out.

 

Know what your pig's normal temperature is. Take your pig's temperature once a day for one week at the same time each day. This will help you and your vet know what your pig's average temperature is.

Through a study (JAVMA, Vol 215, No. 3, August 1, 1999) it was concluded that potbellied pigs have a lower rectal temperature than farm pigs (or swine). We did this on our pigs for 34 days straight in January/February of 1999 as part of a larger test and discovered that their average temperature was 99.3 degrees F, far less than what was believed to be normal.

The Last Hoorah

 This is for that day, hopefully in the distant future, when you might have to make one of the hardest choices out there. Of the 10 pigs that I have lost over the years I've only had to make the decision 3 times to help them go to the Rainbow Bridge. The first time was 10 years ago and the most recent was just a few weeks ago. Making that decision was still just as hard as it was the first time. I do not make this decision lightly and this last time ended up changing my mind, only to end up calling the vet back out a week later. Each time I've been right there with them till their last breath loving on them and talking to them. This is a decision that only you can make...no one else.

When the time comes and you are preparing for your pet pig's euthanasia, it is important to choose a veterinarian who has experience working with our pet pigs and who is familiar with the proper sedation protocol for pigs. They are different from dogs and cats and it's important to know the difference in order to provide a peaceful passing.

Having a pig for a pet you know that doing procedures on them can be a challenge. So, a peaceful euthanasia for our pet pigs means proper sedation with little to know stress. If the pig is down this normally isn't too much of a problem. For others you may be asked to help restrain them. It is important to be prepared on how to restrain your pig with the least amount of stress. A sorting board is recommended and he should be in an area where he can easily be cornered or pushed up against a wall. Once he is in position it will be safe for the vet to administer the first injection.

You want the vet to put your pig to sleep first before giving the pheno barb (Euthasol) solution. The formula used back in the 90's, yes the 90's was Rompan & Telazol (see below). My current vet just uses Telazol and my previous vet used a combination of (ketamine/xylazine/telazol) to put my pig to sleep before giving the Euthasol. The important thing is that the pig be completely asleep for the Euthasol. The injection of the Euthasol is given what is called Intracardiac. Intracardiac injections are injections that are given directly into the heart muscles or ventricles. This method is unacceptable and cruel if not done properly. When the pet is properly sedated, it is a painless and peaceful way of passing.

The Last Hoorah:
by Phyllis Battoe (Originally presented March 1998)

For that time that we never want to think about but is as much a part of life as anything else. What is the most humane way of putting a pig down? The less stress the better for all concerned.

When this time comes (and only you can decide this very personal issue) the thing we all want most for our porcine friends is to have them go peacefully to the Rainbow Bridge.

We use a formula here to put the pig to sleep (see end of article for formula) and after the pig is asleep we use the jugular, the same place most of you use for blood testing, and administer the pheno barb solution.

The pig is already asleep and this can be done easily. Needless to say that you need not be as careful with the dosage of the first injection of Telazol and Rompan when it is used for this purpose.

I only bring this unwanted subject up because there are people I here from all the time telling horror stories of what has happened. There have been many cases of giving the pig the injection directly into the heart without the pig being asleep first.

While this method is fast, I have trouble going along with it if there is a way to do it that I feel is more humane. This is something that you need to discuss with your vet before the time comes when you may not be thinking as clearly.

One last note here would be to ask you to stay with your friend until it is over. A hard thing to do for us but a good thing for the pet that has given so much to us.

In thirty-five years there has never been an animal here that went to the final sleep without the touch of many hands on their heads and the sound of my voice in their ear.

A hard thing for us to do but so little compared to what they have given in the short time we are allowed to have them with us.

Rough Formula:
For Larger Pets (50+ pounds)
1cc for every 50 pounds of body weight of Telazol
1cc for every 100 pounds of body weight of Rompan

Put both drugs in the same syringe and give in the neck muscle. Wait five minutes, pig will go down and be asleep.

More Detailed Formula:
For Smaller Pets (40-50 pounds)
2 mg for every pound of body weight of Telazol
1 mg for every pound of body weight of Rompan

Activities for Pet Pig Enrichment

It's the middle of winter and my pig is bored, what can I do to keep him entertained or what kind of toys do they like? Here are a few suggestions from the very simple to the more elaborate.

In my experience it doesn't always have to cost a lot of money to give your pig a few hours of entertainment a day. With our first pigs, Ziggy & Flower we would give them newspaper & magazines to shred...brown packing paper works just as well too. This was a favorite of Ziggy's and he would wear himself out within about 30 minutes...shaking and shredding the paper and jumping around. Other days we would roll grapes across the room for them to go after. I know not real exciting, but it got them up and moving about. We eventually made them a rooting box which we filled with fist sized river rocks and would then put either their pellets or popcorn in it for them. 

Flower in her rooting box.

Rooting Box: This is a great indoor activity. Appropriate items for a rooting box are anything safe and big enough to not swallow or too sharp. We used fist sized river rocks with ours, but many now use play pit balls, large stones, stuffed animals, an assortment of toys, blankets, anything your pig can search through will work fine. We made our rooting box out of wood while most folks use a kiddie pool. I have even seen where someone took an end table and turned it upside down to make their rooting box.

Using a pool as a rooting box.

 

What kind of toys do our pet pigs like?
In my experience most pigs don't care for toys like a dog would, but here are a few toys and ideas for keeping piggy entertained that you can try.

Put some peanut butter into the center of a bobble toy and then let your pig roll it around as it licks peanut butter out of it.

Any rope toys designed for dogs are also good for a pig. A milk jug or liter bottle with a few holes and pig pellets added. Your pig will push this all over the house until each little pellet has fallen out and eaten.

Another use of the 2 liter pop bottle is to remove the cap, make holes a little bigger than pig pellets. Vary the holes from about 2 inches from the bottom to about 4 inches from the bottom so he doesn't get frustrated. Take some twine and tie around top to an anchored ceiling hook. Make sure it hangs at snout level so he doesn't have to look up constantly.

Balls seem to make a lot of pigs happy as well. Big balls like bowling balls, sports balls, such as basketballs or soccer balls are all good choices. Just make sure you put anything breakable put away.

A wiffle ball or something similar filled with goodies. This makes for some good exercise. 

Exercise ball with goodies

Some like musical toys made for young children. Horns they can grab with their mouths or piano keys they can play with their noses provide challenging activities for our pets.

Remember that what one pig finds entertaining another might find just so-so. Have fun finding what your pig's favorite is.

Make sure that those outside pigs are getting exercise too during these winter months. If you have snow on the ground I suggest shoveling a path(s) so they can get out of their enclosure to go for a walk when weather permits, not just potty. We would sprinkle popcorn or pellets for them to search for.

Bonnie and Clyde searching for some goodies that I threw them to help keep them active.

One last thing for the outside pig is this feed dispenser that I came across. Make sure that the holes are big enough for the pellets to come out of, but don't drill too many of them as you want them to "work" for them. Make sure it is at snout level so your pig doesn't have to look up to get the treats out. 

Outside feed dispenser for pigs.

Constipation In Pet Pigs

Is my pig constipated? Know what to look for and what to do to help your pig.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

What are the causes of not being able to poop? Some causes of constipation include:

•     Changes to diet or activities.
•     Not enough water or fiber in the diet.
•     Inclement weather.
•     Not being active.
•     Resisting the urge to poop.
•     Stress.
•     Some medications (especially strong pain drugs such as narcotics)

Pigs will vary in their bowel habits. Some pigs have large droppings that make you think a large animal passed through your yard in the night, others drop little berries like a rabbit and you wonder how he can eat so much and have so little exit. Most pigs go every day sometimes twice, but have the ability to hold it for many days. Know what is normal for your pig in his habits, the amount and size of your pigs droppings.

For the pig that is holding it and not used to riding in the car, most will defecate as soon as you take them for a ride around the block.

There is a difference between the pig that is being stubborn and not wanting to go potty from the constipated pig. The constipated pig will be straining to go potty.

Keeping healthy bowel action means keeping plenty of fresh fiber (grazing or fresh greens) and adequate water in their diet.This does not mean making them drink their pellets like soup, but encouraging them to drink more water by adding just a little...and I mean just a little fruit juice to their water and making sure that your pig chow is high in fiber. If your pig chow isn't high in fiber you can just a couple of scoops of Piggy Lax daily.

Pigs that don’t drink plenty of water need additional foods containing it. Just a few foods that are high in water content are: Watermelon, Strawberries, Cantaloupe, Cucumber, Peaches, Lettuce, Celery & Zucchini. It's also a good idea to keep a can of pumpkin in the pantry as it helps ease digestion.

If the constipation turns out to be an obstruction then surgery is required. This is rare with outdoor pigs but way too common in house-pigs who ingest carpet and blanket fibers which are not digestible and build up in the colon as solid masses. These pigs are usually off their feed and have painful abdomens. They should see a vet ASAP.

The older the pig the more likely they are to sleep most of the day and thus they are not active. Here the pigs are made to get up twice a day for meals and potty. It might not be a lot of walking, but some is better than none. Get those older pigs up and moving about at least twice a day.

Teeth and Tusks In The Mini Pig

Teeth

Pigs are born with 8 teeth and the rest of the baby teeth erupt by 3 months of age. At about 5 months of age the permanent teeth will start coming in and will continue until 18-20 months of age. Be sure to watch for and save those baby teeth for the tooth fairy. Teething can be uncomfortable for your pig so you may hear him grinding his teeth occasionally and/or wanting something to chew on during this time.

Provided by:  The Veterinary Journal for  Miniature Pets

Grinding Teeth

Yes, pigs will grind their teeth for a variety of reasons. Most will do it when teething, others do it to keep those tusks sharp. Or, he could be a little distressed. It comes with the territory.

Our pigs tend to have lower front teeth that will stick out farther than their upper teeth. This is called an undershot bite and is normal.

Clyde showing off his undershot bite and tusks.

Teeth cleaning to prevent decay is desirable, but not essential.  I have never done it here as I like having ten fingers. Others use a soft child's toothbrush or simply put some toothpaste on their finger and let the pig eat it. Pigs are prone to tooth decay because of their love for food, so care should be given when feeding sweets and fruits which are loaded with calories and sugar thus leading to cavities. However, a close examination of the teeth and jaw for signs of abscesses, especially in older pigs, is essential.

This is a molar from Hansel who is 18. You are seeing the top and bottom of it.

The molar above is from Hansel who is 18. I actually watched as he spit it out after dinner one evening. It was at least a good 2 weeks before he could get the hang of eating without it and he wanted only soft food and smaller pieces of his nightly treat. Thankfully no abscesses.

Tusks

Do all pigs grow tusks? Yes, all pigs grow tusks. This, of course, includes potbelly pigs. Female pot bellied pigs grow small tusks that rarely get large enough to stick out of their mouth. In fact they usually look like the rest of their teeth. Neutered males will have a nice set of tusks that usually grow large enough to protrude from the mouth. This will start to happen at about two to three years of age.

Nicholas is just a little over a year old and you can see his tusks just starting to show.

As our pigs age, tusk growth slows. Growth is driven by testosterone in early life.

This is Harley at age 17 and no tusk trims needed in the last 7 years.

Tusks need not be trimmed unless they are causing a problem for the pig or you. NEVER let anyone trim the tusks if the pig is awake and screaming. He can accidentally inhale the tusk. Tusk trimming is best done by your vet while using Isoflurane gas anesthesia. IF you are like most of us and have a mobile vet ask them about using Midazolam if necessary. This is a mild sedative which is very safe and the pig never really goes "under", just dozy and wakes slowly and naturally. NOTE: You will need to know your pigs weight (NO guessing) so that the correct amount can be given. It is not necessary to put the pig under...most vets are able to trim the tusks while the pig is flipped for his hoof trim.

Most vets will use what is called a Gigli Wire which is like a saw to cut the tusk off. Make sure that at least 1/2 inch or more of tusk is left. The gums have a tendency to become infected if the tusk is trimmed to close to the gum line. Also, DO NOT have anyone remove the tusks! They are part of the jawbone and removal will cause serious problems! Again, this is definitely a job for a vet or experienced trimmer... anesthesia may be required.

Tusks will continue to grow for the life of the pig. They are the top and bottom canines and both curve upwards. In the wild the tusks wear down or break off, however, this isn't likely with the pet pig. Clyde was one of those pigs that never needed a tusk trim and was neutered at about 8-12 months of age. He was constantly grinding them...they were nice and sharp, but short enough at the same time not to cause any issues.

Just a few of the tusks removed from a couple of my boys over the years.

As you can see from the picture above I like to let the tusks grow until they start to be a problem. Porky's were just starting to go into his cheek when I was looking for a new vet. He was a bit of a challenge being 205lbs, but with a little Telazol the vet and her assistant were able to safely trim them back and we are now good for another couple of years. Porky was up and his normal self in about 30-60 minutes. NOTE: I am not fond of injectables, but there is a time and place for them and this was one of them. Porky ended up sitting on the syringe with needle in his butt. Vet guessed that he had received half of what she was planning to give him...and it ended up being the right amount for him. He was a little drunk /wobbly after the trimming, but able to stand on all 4's after about 30-60 minutes of a good nap.

Can the tusks be removed? NO, they should never be removed as they are part of the jaw. Tusks are not teeth. The root of the tusk is deep in the jaw. Removing a tusk is dangerous, expensive and painful, because the jaw must be broken to remove the root. Normally this surgery is done only when there's a medically necessary reason (cancer or deep infection). Most vets won’t do it. If a vet says he will remove the tusks...look for another vet. The blood supply and nerves are below the gum line so they can be trimmed down, but never to the gum line. Always make sure that at least 1/2 inch or more is left. Cutting all the way to the gum line can lead to other issues like a abscess. Tusks are NOT TEETH and will grow for the pigs whole life. Don't confuse the word "removed" with "trimmed". They mean two different things.

Bathing the Pet Pig

Pigs are naturally very clean animals, with a tendency to dry skin. Due to the nature of their dry skin, with less body oils than other pets like cats and dogs, they normally do not have a body odor, even when wet. Smelling an odor from your neutered pet pig can usually be attributed to something in their environment.

Pigs have a natural love of water, but piglets show some concern when the water is running from the kitchen or bathroom tap. Begin familiarizing your piglet with bath time as soon it feels secure in your home. The best method is to place a rubber mat in the bottom of the tub or sink if you pig is still very little. Run a couple of inches of warm water in the tub. Float a few of your piglet’s favorite treats like cheerios, apple pieces or lettuce on the water, and put your piglet into the tub. Allow your piglet time to become acquainted with its new surroundings and at the same time, play or nibble on its floating treats. An alternative to floating treats is smearing some peanut butter on the side of the tub.

Then with a small brush or a round ball type plastic pot scrubber, begin to rub your piglet as it plays in the water. After the pig begins to enjoy the experience, it is time to apply the water and shampoo. Do not use baby shampoo or dog or cat shampoo. These types of shampoos can cause your pig’s skin to become too dry. Ultra Shampoo has excellent cleansing properties, softens the skin and reduces or eliminates dandruff-like scaly dermatitis. Should your pig’s white hair begin to look dingy, Whiter ‘N White will lighten and brighten the white hair as it removes stains and discolorations. Micro-Mist is a revitalizing humectant mist designed to deliver long lasting moisture factors to the hair shafts and skin of your pig and can be applied between shampoos.

Charleigh during her bath with Ultra Shampoo and after. Doesn't she look great?

Be sure to remove the treats prior to applying the shampoo. After a good shampoo lathering and a thorough scrubbing to remove dead skin from your piglet, use a plastic cup to rinse the shampoo from your pet. Should the water become very dirty, let the dirty water out and slowly refill the tub with clean water. Remember, in most cases, the sound of running water is frightening your piglet. As the piglet ages and gains more experience with bath time, it is possible to use a spray device attached to the faucet of your tub to rinse your pig.

Bath time for the older, larger and more experienced pig is done in a very similar fashion. Use a rubber mat in the tub so the pig will not slip, apply shampoo, vigorously rub to get the all the dead skin off, rinse by means of an attached sprayer and apply Micro Conditioner, a moisture intensified crème rinse, formulated for normal, dry or sensitive skin. This product leaves your pig’s hair coat silky and lustrous.

Your concern for the older pig is exactly how the pig gets in and out of the bathtub. If your pig is too large to be picked up, help your pig in by placing its front legs on the tub’s edge and then lift your pig’s back legs up and over. You can use the same procedure when helping your pet out. An excellent alternative to the bathtub for the larger, mature potbellied pig is a walk-in shower or an outdoor sun heated child’s wading pool. There is another alternative to the wet shampoo, Fresh N Clean Dry Shampoo and Deodorizer. This is product provides you an all season method for making your pig fresh and clean without a perfume smell.

Remember, wash your pig with soap based on the condition of its skin. Over bathing with soap can contribute to your pig’s naturally dry skin. Do not apply external oils to your pig. Oils will contribute to your pig’s skin retaining unwanted dirt and will promote the growth of more bacteria, which can cause your pig to smell and to have the need for more frequent bathing and more dry skin problems.    
     
by Kathleen Myers for Healthy Pigs

Does Your Pig Hibernate? Behavioral patterns during the winter.

Strange as it sounds it sometimes appears to be the case around here, we notice a definite change in temperament and response in the pigs during the winter months, or when it has been nice and temps drop again. Even the house pigs are affected to a certain degree.

This year we have heard from numerous folks with indoor pigs that seem to be filling the affects. We know it affects the outdoor pigs as we have watched them for the last seven or eight winters. There is very little activity, a little more arguing and growling among themselves and a tendency to not even particularly like people.

This is not too hard to understand as some of us are cranky and crabby during the winter months also, or at least I am. A week without sunshine and I am hard to live with.

Harley Hog trying to decide if he wants to come outside or not.

With these pigs however, it is almost like a semi-hibernation. They sleep most of the time, are less interested in anything going on around them, and only seem to come alive at feed time and even then it is not to the same degree as the rest of the year. They do not do the walking around the feed pans, the butting each other, and it sometimes seems to be an aggravation to them for us to bother them at all.

During the rest of the year we are met with squeals of delight and happy happy sounds. during the winter they grumble at us, make low throaty noises and really don't care to be bothered with a belly rub or pat on the side. Pigs that have never swiped at us before will do it in the winter months and pigs that already have a reputation for it do it more often than I care to remember during the winter months.

Whether they are in a heated house or one full of straw they still show signs of winter depression. They are crabby and irritable and generally hard to get along with. They seem to want nothing from us other than their dinner and their blankets to lay in and cover up with.

Making them go out to do their business becomes a real battle of wills and one that we don't always win. You would think that they would appreciate the fact that we shovel their walk out and "business areas" and keep it clean of snow before we ask them to make the dreaded trip outdoors, but that does not seem to be the case.

They also appear to not care as much about attention and fun things that they may have enjoyed the rest of the year. All in all it makes for a real strange relationship for a few months.

Maybe the answer is for us to semi-hibernate with them, but then who would shovel the snow? How many times can we apologize for it being winter again? Oh well, we have the consolation of knowing that is won't last forever, even if it seems like it when it is happening.

Nothing, but putting up with a whole bunch of crabby, complaining, grouchy pigs for a few months could make us people appreciate Spring, RIGHT?

The Importance of Your Pig Chow

Once again we are seeing posts and receiving emails about what veggies to give your pig(s). This veggie vs, that veggie. So once again we thought it might be time to reiterate that these pigs are Omnivore not Herbivore. While vegetables and fruits make great treats they are not nutritionally sound for complete diet or even half a diet.

Vegetables and fruits do not contain the protein that your pig needs nor do they contain all the other things incorporated into a well-made pig chow that keeps your pig healthy.

Part of this idea of feeding veggies and fruits seems to be based on what we would like to think they eat on their own. Left to fend for themselves they would be eating worms, small animals and even dead animals along with the grass and seeds and nuts that they find.

In this manner they adjust their own protein needs with the roughage and fiber that they know is important to them.

Well, great news folks! That's why we have good pig chows! Many years of development, millions of dollars in research facilities, many years of testing have gone in to what it takes to keep a pig happy and healthy.

There is NO substitute for a well-made pig chow in your pigs diet. This is what the chow was developed for...as a complete diet for the pig!

Flower cleaning her bowl.

When a pig is getting too heavy here, we cut back on his feed, but we NEVER completely cut out the pig chow. That pig chow is and should always be the foremost and most important part of the pigs diet.

There are 8 pigs here that came from a sanctuary that never had anything but a well balanced pig chow for their main diet. Two of those pigs are now 17 and 2 are 16, the others 11 & 12 years of age. While, we do give a few fruits and veggies now when available, they are not necessary to keep them healthy...they are a treat.

Another humorous thought is how long would it take us to cut up enough veggies and fruits to feed ten pigs daily? We would have to start the day even earlier than we do now and even if we felt like digging up a bunch of grub worms to throw in, it still wouldn't be a balanced diet like the pig chow.

While my opinion on using veggies as a food source is a negative thing there isn't any reason that it can't be used for a treat or when it's available and you want to give them a bite.

Our house pigs have seen veggies  when we are cleaning them for us, but it is in moderation. What we are saying is that a pig that is on a well-balanced, well made pig chow can live it's whole life without ever having a veggie or fruit an still be a healthy happy animal. With that in mind it would stand to reason that the veggies and fruits should be considered as a treat and not as a food.

We receive lots of e-mail's on what veggies and fruits are good for pigs. Not that you are aware of how we feel about feeding veggies and fruits it will come as no surprise that as far as we can tell, it makes no difference.

Some veggies cause more gas than others like broccoli tends to do. You are the one that has to live in the house with your pig so if that doesn't concern you, then no problem.

Personally we feel that too much gas is not good for the pig so we don't feed it at all. Cucumbers are another one that we stay away from for that reason.

There is much discussion over types of lettuce fed to the pigs. Who cares if one is deemed more nutritious than the other? If our pig is on a good complete pig chow then it really doesn't matter what type lettuce you give them in moderation as a treat.

It is our opinion that we can not second guess all the years of research and testing done by professionals and scientists that go into making a well balanced complete pig chow. They did the work and we reap the benefits. That's as it should be.

Sounds - Which Ones Does Your Pig Recognize?

I'm not talking about the sounds that your pig makes, but the sounds that you make on a daily basis that they seem to respond to. We all know that they know the sound of a bag of chips, or food in their bowl, but what about other sounds that we make in our daily routine.

It was several years ago when living in NV that I noticed Chelie's reaction when I put on my winter coat. She had figured out the sound that it made when I put it on and knew that we were going outside. 

Lately I've been watching Porky and some of the other pigs to see which sounds they recognize. They seem to know the sound of the screen door opening, but only react when it is close to feeding time.
They do always seem to know when it's feeding time don't they?  Porky along with Rudy and Gracie seem to recognize the sound of the backdoor now and get all excited hoping that I will come over and let them out.

Most recently Porky has come to recognize the sound of the garage door going up/down. This isn't so bad most times when I'm leaving as he is usually still in his pen or far enough out in the yard, but I find myself racing to get the car into the garage and door closed before Porky when he is anywhere close by. You see he knows that is where the food is kept.

Porky guarding the garage.

Does anyone else have a similar experience?

Changing Temperatures and Your Pet Pig

Here we go into the blahs of cold weather once again. It is a time for fluctuating temperatures that go from one extreme to another, and that is not good news for the precious porkers that live with us.

Our porcine friends do not like change in anything and the weather is no exception. Pigs are prone to respiratory problems and drastic change in temperatures can cause them even more problems. How much is too much for a pig? It depends on the pig. Even house pigs have a problem sometimes going from the heated house to the outdoors for potty time.

Around here we start watching close anytime there is a twenty degree difference in temperature up or down. The outside pigs are not immune just because they live outside and the house pigs just because they live in the house. What can we do about it? Keep a close eye on the pig and its actions.

We don't leave our house pets out for any extended length of time to do their business when there has been a sudden change and we bed outside pigs very well when the forecast calls for a sharp change. This is the time of year when I urge people to make sure that they have some kind of antibiotic on hand for those weekends and late nights when a vet may not be available. A few hours can make a difference.

As always prevention beats a cure but we cannot always control the environment of the pig. We want to watch for any change in a pigs eating habits. These guys are not like dogs and cats that may just have an off day over food. When a pig does not eat at all, the pig has a serious problem. NEVER ignore the fact that a pig turned down a meal! If this should happen then take his temperature. As a rule a pig with respiratory problems will run a fever.

Call your vet and explain that your pig is not eating and has a temperature and tell the vet that you know that these guys are prone to respiratory problems. ASK for an antibiotic. If it's a time when you can not get your vet then use what you have hopefully gotten from him to keep on hand for emergencies. There are a lot of safe antibiotics that are tasteless that you can put in some kind of treat. We keep 500 mg. Ampicillin here for emergency situations.

If you catch it before it gets too bad the pig will usually take it in a favorite treat. If it is beyond that, then the only other solution is an injectable antibiotic or you go the hard route and put the powder from the pill, or crushed pill in a syringe without the needle on it, mixed with a little water and give it to them by mouth.

If treated early the pig should respond within twelve hours and they have been known to get up and eat a meal after four or five hours. If is so very important to catch this at the beginning and save yourself and your pig a lot of stress.

These little critters seem to be very hale and hearty most of the time, but it is amazing how fast this problem can come on. We have seen it happen from the morning feed where the pig eats normally to the evening feeding when he is uninterested, lethargic and almost down. It is far better to be prepared then to be on the phone at 2 am looking for a Dr. and or making a long trip to pick something up from him for the pig. Most vets won't have a problem with giving you a mild antibiotic for this purpose.

I do not advocate treatment of your pig without a veterinarians advice. What I do advocate is something to help the pig until the time that he might be taken into the vet for treatment. This is what this is all about, a way to get something in the pig in a time frame that might make the difference for the pig until he can be seen by a veterinarian. It is far better to be prepared and never need it then to be stuck in a situation where you do need it and it is not there.

So as the seasons change get prepared and keep one eye on the sky, and the other on your piggy friend.