You Have A Sick Pig - How to tell if your pig is sick, what to do if your pig is sick.

The best judge of the health of your pig is "YOU". You live with the pig, you see the pigs normal actions on a daily basis. You can tell when things are just a little off with your porcine friend. This is the time to take action as most things if caught in time, won't be fatal to your pig.

A sick pig looks sick! Pigs that do not feel well have a tendency to show it in their coat first. The hair will stand on end all over the pig much like a porcupine effect. Pigs also do this when cold, but not to the same degree.

A pig that is not interested wholeheartedly and one hundred percent in his food is a pig that is not well.  A pig loves to eat, it is the natural way of things. Unlike dogs or cats who will occasionally turn down a meal because it may not suit their taste that day, a pig is not picky. This cannot be stressed enough.

A pig that is not ready to eat is a pig that is not feeling well or is in extreme pain. (The exception to this is the boar pig who seems to have more interest in his testosterone than in the food supply.)

A pig standing with his back hunched and his hind legs far under the body is a sick pig. This is a stance that is seen with constipation, blockage, stomach aches, hernias, urinary tract problems and general pain in the abdominal or genital area.

What problems are most common? The illness of choice for these guys appears to be respiratory problems. There are several different forms of pneumonia's, some more critical than others, but all can be serious. Pneumonia is not always accompanied by coughing. Most of the time the first symptom is just not eating and elevated temperatures. Sometimes with the more serious forms there is labored breathing.

For what we call just plain old pig pneumonia, a good antibiotic shot will make all the difference in the world. Usually after one shot they will be up and eating again by the following day and then can go on to oral antibiotics for a period of five or six days or another shot in 3-4 days. This is a treatment that we use on any pig that decides it does not want to eat and is running a temperature.

If it's not pneumonia then the shot is not going to hurt them and if it is pneumonia the shot can save their lives and give you a head start on fixing the problem. You might ask your vet to dose at the high end of the scale as it appears that a pig takes a good dose to get through to the problem. A pig with pneumonia will run a temperature so first order is to get a temperature on your pig.

Constipation seems to be the second most common problem, especially in the older more sedate pigs. This usually occurs during the winter months when they aren't walking around as much. Sometimes they will give no symptoms at all other than a less than eager appetite and sometimes they will strain to go and pass very little as a result. This is where watching your pig can make the difference. You should know if your pig is going to the bathroom or not. Constipation can be serious with your pig if he does not show symptoms early.

First of all you want to make sure that there is something, even a small amount going through. When and if you determine that there is indeed a small amount being passed than you can try several methods to help him along.

I can't stress strongly enough that you need to make sure first that there is fecal matter being passed. A constipated pig will pass hard balls that crumble when stepped on and they will be few in number.

A few things to help your pig with constipation are Piggy Lax and Bulky Lax Plus. Used on a regular basis will help to keep constipation at bay. Canned pumpkin will help if you haven't been using Piggy Lax or Bulky Lax Plus. In extreme cases Dulcolax suppositories will help. All of these things are to be used ONLY on pigs that you see passing fecal matter. If the pig is not passing anything at all DO NOT USE ANY OF THE THINGS MENTIONED ABOVE as you could be dealing with a blockage instead of constipation. The pig does not usually run a temperature with a constipation problem.

Blockage is serious and life threatening. This is when the pig can't pass anything due to a blockage in the bowels. A pig with a blockage will not eat. They may not strain but they will be lethargic and may dig at the ground continually. The will stand hunkered up with their legs far under the body.

It is imperative that you get medical help for that pig as soon as possible. Most vets will be able to tell with ultrasound or x-ray just where the blockage may be and a blockage usually has to be dealt with using surgery. DO NOT give an enema or laxatives to a pig that is not passing anything as this could cost the pig its life.

By trying to force a blockage out it can rupture the intestine leaving the pig open to peritonitis which can be fatal. A pig with a blockage can go on for several days. He will not eat and is in pain. If it is a blockage his chance of recovery is good if taken to a vet early.

It is very important to remember if there is not stool from the pig DO NOT GIVE AN ENEMA! You must see something coming through before you even think about that treatment. A pig with a blockage will not necessarily run a temperature until the problem has become very serious.

The main tool for you and your vet is the pigs temperature. When a pig does not eat with his usual gusto there is a reason. The temperature can help you and your vet diagnose what the problem may be. This is done in the rectum and is fairly easy for even the novice to handle.

There was a study done on potbellied pigs in 1999. We discovered that the normal resting temperature for potbellied pigs is indeed lower than the commercial farm hogs. If your pig's temperature is 102 then your pig is running a fever and you and your pig need help.

Rudy's temp when he wasn't feeling well and the vet was called to come out.

 

Know what your pig's normal temperature is. Take your pig's temperature once a day for one week at the same time each day. This will help you and your vet know what your pig's average temperature is.

Through a study (JAVMA, Vol 215, No. 3, August 1, 1999) it was concluded that potbellied pigs have a lower rectal temperature than farm pigs (or swine). We did this on our pigs for 34 days straight in January/February of 1999 as part of a larger test and discovered that their average temperature was 99.3 degrees F, far less than what was believed to be normal.

Changing Temperatures and Your Pet Pig

Here we go into the blahs of cold weather once again. It is a time for fluctuating temperatures that go from one extreme to another, and that is not good news for the precious porkers that live with us.

Our porcine friends do not like change in anything and the weather is no exception. Pigs are prone to respiratory problems and drastic change in temperatures can cause them even more problems. How much is too much for a pig? It depends on the pig. Even house pigs have a problem sometimes going from the heated house to the outdoors for potty time.

Around here we start watching close anytime there is a twenty degree difference in temperature up or down. The outside pigs are not immune just because they live outside and the house pigs just because they live in the house. What can we do about it? Keep a close eye on the pig and its actions.

We don't leave our house pets out for any extended length of time to do their business when there has been a sudden change and we bed outside pigs very well when the forecast calls for a sharp change. This is the time of year when I urge people to make sure that they have some kind of antibiotic on hand for those weekends and late nights when a vet may not be available. A few hours can make a difference.

As always prevention beats a cure but we cannot always control the environment of the pig. We want to watch for any change in a pigs eating habits. These guys are not like dogs and cats that may just have an off day over food. When a pig does not eat at all, the pig has a serious problem. NEVER ignore the fact that a pig turned down a meal! If this should happen then take his temperature. As a rule a pig with respiratory problems will run a fever.

Call your vet and explain that your pig is not eating and has a temperature and tell the vet that you know that these guys are prone to respiratory problems. ASK for an antibiotic. If it's a time when you can not get your vet then use what you have hopefully gotten from him to keep on hand for emergencies. There are a lot of safe antibiotics that are tasteless that you can put in some kind of treat. We keep 500 mg. Ampicillin here for emergency situations.

If you catch it before it gets too bad the pig will usually take it in a favorite treat. If it is beyond that, then the only other solution is an injectable antibiotic or you go the hard route and put the powder from the pill, or crushed pill in a syringe without the needle on it, mixed with a little water and give it to them by mouth.

If treated early the pig should respond within twelve hours and they have been known to get up and eat a meal after four or five hours. If is so very important to catch this at the beginning and save yourself and your pig a lot of stress.

These little critters seem to be very hale and hearty most of the time, but it is amazing how fast this problem can come on. We have seen it happen from the morning feed where the pig eats normally to the evening feeding when he is uninterested, lethargic and almost down. It is far better to be prepared then to be on the phone at 2 am looking for a Dr. and or making a long trip to pick something up from him for the pig. Most vets won't have a problem with giving you a mild antibiotic for this purpose.

I do not advocate treatment of your pig without a veterinarians advice. What I do advocate is something to help the pig until the time that he might be taken into the vet for treatment. This is what this is all about, a way to get something in the pig in a time frame that might make the difference for the pig until he can be seen by a veterinarian. It is far better to be prepared and never need it then to be stuck in a situation where you do need it and it is not there.

So as the seasons change get prepared and keep one eye on the sky, and the other on your piggy friend.

Cold Weather and Pneumonia

Question: How long can I leave my house pig outside for potty duty in the winter time?

When it really gets dead of winter we only leave them out long enough to do their business and bring them back in again....but then they are always banging at the door to come in anyway!

The reason we don't leave them out long is that they are house pigs and after all night at one temperature we don't want them to have to try to acclimate to the cold temp then back to the warm again.

Drastic changes of temperature can cause respiratory problems like pneumonia. Going out to potty is OK but, we don't like them out there for more than an hour because of the change in temp and the body trying to adjust to it. Pigs that are kept outside all the time get their body temp regulated to that...the same holds true for the indoor house pigs.

Pneumonia: We put this out every year but maybe for new people we should do it again. Pig's don't usually show many symptoms of pneumonia. They don't cough etc. They quit eating!! But most don't even show the labored breathing until it becomes life threatening.

IF A PIG QUITS EATING YOU HAVE A PROBLEM! IF A PIG STARTS PICKING AT HIS FOOD...YOU HAVE A PROBLEM!

A pig is not like a dog...pig's love to eat and they don't get tired of the same diet...they don't get bored with food...they don't quit eating with the idea of getting something better. IF A PIG DOESN'T EAT THERE IS A PROBLEM!

There are other illness that might cause this, but this time of the year, on an average age pig, pneumonia is the most common reason. Most pneumonia's are easily fixed if you catch it EARLY and start treatment as soon as possible.

Seek vet help right away and explain that you think the pig has pneumonia. If it happens to be a weekend or holiday and no vet can be reached we put ours on any antibiotic we have here until the vet can be reached. This can be most of the antibiotics that humans have taken for infections etc. that might be in your home. Most people have Ampicillin or Amoxycillin on hand. If your on good terms with your vet you might ask for just a few of these pills to keep on hand for this kind of emergency use.

As soon as that pig refuses his feed we start treatment until we can get to the vet. If the pig isn't interested in food at all put the antibiotic in a syringe with a little liquid and squirt it into his mouth. If a pig is completely down...and this is something that does happen with some pneumonia's...from the time you feed in the morning and they are fine...till that night they can be completely down.

We use the injectable antibiotics that you can buy at the farm or feed store if the vet isn't readily available. (I know someone is going to say they couldn't give a shot...you can and will if that's what it takes to save your pig.)

Their recovery can be just as rapid as the time it took them to go down. Some are up and eating by the next morning, but then they go on oral meds for five to seven days. It's just very important that you start treatment as soon as possible and get to the vet as soon as you are able.

This is also where that thermometer comes in handy. Take his temp so you can tell the vet he is running a fever. Normal temp for a potbelly is 99 to 101 ANYTHING over that is a fever. Farm pigs are normal at 102. For the pots pneumonia temps are usually in the 102 to 104 range at the very beginning. The key to quick and complete recovery is quick treatment before the lungs are compromised.