Vomiting Pig - What To Do

 

My Pig Is Vomiting

If your pig has ever thrown up, you know it! The smell is something you will never forget. Thankfully, most cases of a vomiting pig can be taken care of at home.

Examine the vomit and look for anything foreign; plant material, plastic, dog food, carpet, etc. to get an idea as to why your pig might have thrown up. It is not always going to be obvious.

Your pig might vomit for a number of reasons:

Eating or drinking too fast
Obstruction from constipation
Eating something they shouldn't
Toxins
Car sickness

In most cases a pig will vomit once maybe twice and all is good. Should your pig continue to vomit CALL YOUR VETERINARIAN IMMEDIATELY!

For the pig that has thrown up you want to let the tummy rest. DO NOT give any food or water right away. They should not receive any food for 24 hours. You can offer small amounts (1/4-1/2 cup) of water (room temperature) every 3-4 hours. If they hold down the water you can begin to offer small amounts of bland food (boiled rice, applesauce) or soft pig chow with NO extras. Wait 4 hours before offering more. Continue with the small amounts. As long as there is no vomiting increase the amount over the next couple of days.

If your pig vomits any food or water when reintroduced, you should have your pig examined by a veterinarian immediately.

Pigs and Heat: Ways To Help Them Keep Them Cool

Do you know why it's so important to keep pigs cool in the heat of summer? They don't sweat. Unlike us or dogs, horses, cows and other animals that sweat, the pig does not. While pigs do have a few sweat glands it is not enough for them to maintain a solid body temperature in the heat of summer. When it's hot out, sweating is what keeps us cool. Because pigs do not sweat they can easily overheat, even have a heat stroke and die.

Provide Shade

Outside pigs should always have plenty of shade. The shade can be in forms of plants, a lean to, a tarp, umbrella or a type of shade sail. Any of these will work. Make sure that they have somewhere to go to get out of the sun. It doesn't have to be fancy...it needs to be functional and provide protection from the sun. Protection from the sun is so important for pigs, as the sun can be so harsh in the summertime.

Shade provided by trees, tarp and shade sail.

Did you know that in the shade, it will feel 10-15 degrees cooler, but the temperature is the exact same as temperature in full sunlight. The shade feels cooler because you are avoiding solar radiation. In reality, the temperature in the sun is the same as the temperature in the shade. That being said, solar radiation can make a huge difference in how you might feel about the temperature. When in the shade, your skin is not being “heated” by the sun’s rays, so your skin and your body feel a more comfortable temperature. When you are outside and not under shade of some kind, solar radiation warms the skin and makes your body’s natural ways of cooling down less effective at cooling you down.

Mud Hole / Pool

Make sure that your pig has access to either a pool or mud hole.

These too should be in the shade not sitting directly in the sun. I personally like the mud hole as it provides a couple of benefits for our pigs. The mud helps to keep the pig cool. It's soft and soothing on the pig's skin during the heat of the day. The other benefits are that it works as a sunblock and protects against bugs.

Mud holes may need to be filled up a couple of times a day, especially during the hottest part of summer.

Not able to make a mud hole for your pig because you have sand or sand like dirt? You can still make a make-shift wallow for them. All you need is a kiddie pool, some dirt (clay if it's available) and of course water. Find the place that you want the pool to go. Dig out a few inches of the dirt where the pool will go. Put the pool in and fill with the dirt that you dug out and fill with water. It will take several times before the water stays in the pool, other than being soaked up by the dirt. I have 3 of the here and the pigs love them. 

Porky cooling off in his mud pool.

Each of the pens here include a mud pool, piggy pool and at least two water bowls. Because I'm not always here on some of those hot days I want to make sure that the pigs always have access to a water source. Besides a mud hole, kiddie pools are also available to the pigs here. Kiddie pools work just fine.

For the new pig parent it can be a challenge to get your pig into the pool for the first time. I cut out an opening with a pair of scissors so that the pig can easily get in and out. The pool doesn't need to be filled to the top. Just a couple of inches of water is more than enough for the pig to cool itself off and will make cleaning a bit easier on you. A pool full of water is very difficult to dump. And with young pigs you may need to clean it on a daily basis as they are prone to go potty in the pool. 

Pepper Pig's pool is cut down so she can easily get in and out.

Other ways to help keep your pig cool on those hot summer days. 

On those really hot and humid days we hose down the ground (NOT the pig) where the pigs live so at least the ground is cool. A misting system works well too, though my pigs were not fond of the mist they did enjoy the cool wet ground.

 

Gracie loves rolling around in the wet dirt on hot days.

A fan running on low to keep air circulating will help. By blowing air around, the fan makes it easier for the air to evaporate sweat from your skin, which is how you eliminate body heat. The more evaporation, the cooler you or your pig feels.

Most pigs are not fond of being hosed down, though there are 2 here that will let me do it from time to time. If squirting your pig with the hose please watch where you are pointing the hose. The belly area is what we want to cool them down NOT their back. Watch not to get it in their face or ears. Water in the ears will give them a head tilt.

Rudy getting hosed down.

Remember that the water coming out of your hose can be hot to begin with so give it time to cool down before spraying your pig or filling up pools or water bowls. If you have pigs like mine they will wake up from sleeping to get a drink from a freshly filled bowl or pool or jump in once it's been freshened.

Realize that on the really hot days they won't feel like doing much...so let sleeping pigs lie.

Andrew taking a nap in the shade.

If you think that your pig might be over heating (breathing heavy) you need to cool him down. Spraying him with hose is not what you want to do. The best way to cool down an over heated pig is with a cool/tepid towel or water on his belly and behind the ears if he will let you. I have had two pigs that have needed cooling down. They would not let me put a towel on them, but slowly run the hose on their belly and thus slowly cooling them down and wetting down the ground around them at the same time.

Encourage them to drink WATER. Do not let them run out of water during the day. Just like us, pigs need to stay hydrated. ...only adding some Gatorade or Pedialyte as a 50/50 mixture if necessary.  You might want to offer goodies like watermelon, Popsicle's, frozen grapes and ice cubes in water as summer time treats. Note these are not meant to cool off a pig that is over heating...but as a treat that they will certainly enjoy.

For those that have house pigs they should go out early morning and later in the evening when temps are at their coolest and there is more shade. They are used to the A/C and being out in the heat for too long can cause them to over heat.

You Have A Sick Pig - How to tell if your pig is sick, what to do if your pig is sick.

The best judge of the health of your pig is "YOU". You live with the pig, you see the pigs normal actions on a daily basis. You can tell when things are just a little off with your porcine friend. This is the time to take action as most things if caught in time, won't be fatal to your pig.

A sick pig looks sick! Pigs that do not feel well have a tendency to show it in their coat first. The hair will stand on end all over the pig much like a porcupine effect. Pigs also do this when cold, but not to the same degree.

A pig that is not interested wholeheartedly and one hundred percent in his food is a pig that is not well.  A pig loves to eat, it is the natural way of things. Unlike dogs or cats who will occasionally turn down a meal because it may not suit their taste that day, a pig is not picky. This cannot be stressed enough.

A pig that is not ready to eat is a pig that is not feeling well or is in extreme pain. (The exception to this is the boar pig who seems to have more interest in his testosterone than in the food supply.)

A pig standing with his back hunched and his hind legs far under the body is a sick pig. This is a stance that is seen with constipation, blockage, stomach aches, hernias, urinary tract problems and general pain in the abdominal or genital area.

What problems are most common? The illness of choice for these guys appears to be respiratory problems. There are several different forms of pneumonia's, some more critical than others, but all can be serious. Pneumonia is not always accompanied by coughing. Most of the time the first symptom is just not eating and elevated temperatures. Sometimes with the more serious forms there is labored breathing.

For what we call just plain old pig pneumonia, a good antibiotic shot will make all the difference in the world. Usually after one shot they will be up and eating again by the following day and then can go on to oral antibiotics for a period of five or six days or another shot in 3-4 days. This is a treatment that we use on any pig that decides it does not want to eat and is running a temperature.

If it's not pneumonia then the shot is not going to hurt them and if it is pneumonia the shot can save their lives and give you a head start on fixing the problem. You might ask your vet to dose at the high end of the scale as it appears that a pig takes a good dose to get through to the problem. A pig with pneumonia will run a temperature so first order is to get a temperature on your pig.

Constipation seems to be the second most common problem, especially in the older more sedate pigs. This usually occurs during the winter months when they aren't walking around as much. Sometimes they will give no symptoms at all other than a less than eager appetite and sometimes they will strain to go and pass very little as a result. This is where watching your pig can make the difference. You should know if your pig is going to the bathroom or not. Constipation can be serious with your pig if he does not show symptoms early.

First of all you want to make sure that there is something, even a small amount going through. When and if you determine that there is indeed a small amount being passed than you can try several methods to help him along.

I can't stress strongly enough that you need to make sure first that there is fecal matter being passed. A constipated pig will pass hard balls that crumble when stepped on and they will be few in number.

A few things to help your pig with constipation are Piggy Lax and Bulky Lax Plus. Used on a regular basis will help to keep constipation at bay. Canned pumpkin will help if you haven't been using Piggy Lax or Bulky Lax Plus. In extreme cases Dulcolax suppositories will help. All of these things are to be used ONLY on pigs that you see passing fecal matter. If the pig is not passing anything at all DO NOT USE ANY OF THE THINGS MENTIONED ABOVE as you could be dealing with a blockage instead of constipation. The pig does not usually run a temperature with a constipation problem.

Blockage is serious and life threatening. This is when the pig can't pass anything due to a blockage in the bowels. A pig with a blockage will not eat. They may not strain but they will be lethargic and may dig at the ground continually. The will stand hunkered up with their legs far under the body.

It is imperative that you get medical help for that pig as soon as possible. Most vets will be able to tell with ultrasound or x-ray just where the blockage may be and a blockage usually has to be dealt with using surgery. DO NOT give an enema or laxatives to a pig that is not passing anything as this could cost the pig its life.

By trying to force a blockage out it can rupture the intestine leaving the pig open to peritonitis which can be fatal. A pig with a blockage can go on for several days. He will not eat and is in pain. If it is a blockage his chance of recovery is good if taken to a vet early.

It is very important to remember if there is not stool from the pig DO NOT GIVE AN ENEMA! You must see something coming through before you even think about that treatment. A pig with a blockage will not necessarily run a temperature until the problem has become very serious.

The main tool for you and your vet is the pigs temperature. When a pig does not eat with his usual gusto there is a reason. The temperature can help you and your vet diagnose what the problem may be. This is done in the rectum and is fairly easy for even the novice to handle.

There was a study done on potbellied pigs in 1999. We discovered that the normal resting temperature for potbellied pigs is indeed lower than the commercial farm hogs. If your pig's temperature is 102 then your pig is running a fever and you and your pig need help.

Rudy's temp when he wasn't feeling well and the vet was called to come out.

 

Know what your pig's normal temperature is. Take your pig's temperature once a day for one week at the same time each day. This will help you and your vet know what your pig's average temperature is.

Through a study (JAVMA, Vol 215, No. 3, August 1, 1999) it was concluded that potbellied pigs have a lower rectal temperature than farm pigs (or swine). We did this on our pigs for 34 days straight in January/February of 1999 as part of a larger test and discovered that their average temperature was 99.3 degrees F, far less than what was believed to be normal.

The Last Hoorah

 This is for that day, hopefully in the distant future, when you might have to make one of the hardest choices out there. Of the 10 pigs that I have lost over the years I've only had to make the decision 3 times to help them go to the Rainbow Bridge. The first time was 10 years ago and the most recent was just a few weeks ago. Making that decision was still just as hard as it was the first time. I do not make this decision lightly and this last time ended up changing my mind, only to end up calling the vet back out a week later. Each time I've been right there with them till their last breath loving on them and talking to them. This is a decision that only you can make...no one else.

When the time comes and you are preparing for your pet pig's euthanasia, it is important to choose a veterinarian who has experience working with our pet pigs and who is familiar with the proper sedation protocol for pigs. They are different from dogs and cats and it's important to know the difference in order to provide a peaceful passing.

Having a pig for a pet you know that doing procedures on them can be a challenge. So, a peaceful euthanasia for our pet pigs means proper sedation with little to know stress. If the pig is down this normally isn't too much of a problem. For others you may be asked to help restrain them. It is important to be prepared on how to restrain your pig with the least amount of stress. A sorting board is recommended and he should be in an area where he can easily be cornered or pushed up against a wall. Once he is in position it will be safe for the vet to administer the first injection.

You want the vet to put your pig to sleep first before giving the pheno barb (Euthasol) solution. The formula used back in the 90's, yes the 90's was Rompan & Telazol (see below). My current vet just uses Telazol and my previous vet used a combination of (ketamine/xylazine/telazol) to put my pig to sleep before giving the Euthasol. The important thing is that the pig be completely asleep for the Euthasol. The injection of the Euthasol is given what is called Intracardiac. Intracardiac injections are injections that are given directly into the heart muscles or ventricles. This method is unacceptable and cruel if not done properly. When the pet is properly sedated, it is a painless and peaceful way of passing.

The Last Hoorah:
by Phyllis Battoe (Originally presented March 1998)

For that time that we never want to think about but is as much a part of life as anything else. What is the most humane way of putting a pig down? The less stress the better for all concerned.

When this time comes (and only you can decide this very personal issue) the thing we all want most for our porcine friends is to have them go peacefully to the Rainbow Bridge.

We use a formula here to put the pig to sleep (see end of article for formula) and after the pig is asleep we use the jugular, the same place most of you use for blood testing, and administer the pheno barb solution.

The pig is already asleep and this can be done easily. Needless to say that you need not be as careful with the dosage of the first injection of Telazol and Rompan when it is used for this purpose.

I only bring this unwanted subject up because there are people I here from all the time telling horror stories of what has happened. There have been many cases of giving the pig the injection directly into the heart without the pig being asleep first.

While this method is fast, I have trouble going along with it if there is a way to do it that I feel is more humane. This is something that you need to discuss with your vet before the time comes when you may not be thinking as clearly.

One last note here would be to ask you to stay with your friend until it is over. A hard thing to do for us but a good thing for the pet that has given so much to us.

In thirty-five years there has never been an animal here that went to the final sleep without the touch of many hands on their heads and the sound of my voice in their ear.

A hard thing for us to do but so little compared to what they have given in the short time we are allowed to have them with us.

Rough Formula:
For Larger Pets (50+ pounds)
1cc for every 50 pounds of body weight of Telazol
1cc for every 100 pounds of body weight of Rompan

Put both drugs in the same syringe and give in the neck muscle. Wait five minutes, pig will go down and be asleep.

More Detailed Formula:
For Smaller Pets (40-50 pounds)
2 mg for every pound of body weight of Telazol
1 mg for every pound of body weight of Rompan

Activities for Pet Pig Enrichment

It's the middle of winter and my pig is bored, what can I do to keep him entertained or what kind of toys do they like? Here are a few suggestions from the very simple to the more elaborate.

In my experience it doesn't always have to cost a lot of money to give your pig a few hours of entertainment a day. With our first pigs, Ziggy & Flower we would give them newspaper & magazines to shred...brown packing paper works just as well too. This was a favorite of Ziggy's and he would wear himself out within about 30 minutes...shaking and shredding the paper and jumping around. Other days we would roll grapes across the room for them to go after. I know not real exciting, but it got them up and moving about. We eventually made them a rooting box which we filled with fist sized river rocks and would then put either their pellets or popcorn in it for them. 

Flower in her rooting box.

Rooting Box: This is a great indoor activity. Appropriate items for a rooting box are anything safe and big enough to not swallow or too sharp. We used fist sized river rocks with ours, but many now use play pit balls, large stones, stuffed animals, an assortment of toys, blankets, anything your pig can search through will work fine. We made our rooting box out of wood while most folks use a kiddie pool. I have even seen where someone took an end table and turned it upside down to make their rooting box.

Using a pool as a rooting box.

 

What kind of toys do our pet pigs like?
In my experience most pigs don't care for toys like a dog would, but here are a few toys and ideas for keeping piggy entertained that you can try.

Put some peanut butter into the center of a bobble toy and then let your pig roll it around as it licks peanut butter out of it.

Any rope toys designed for dogs are also good for a pig. A milk jug or liter bottle with a few holes and pig pellets added. Your pig will push this all over the house until each little pellet has fallen out and eaten.

Another use of the 2 liter pop bottle is to remove the cap, make holes a little bigger than pig pellets. Vary the holes from about 2 inches from the bottom to about 4 inches from the bottom so he doesn't get frustrated. Take some twine and tie around top to an anchored ceiling hook. Make sure it hangs at snout level so he doesn't have to look up constantly.

Balls seem to make a lot of pigs happy as well. Big balls like bowling balls, sports balls, such as basketballs or soccer balls are all good choices. Just make sure you put anything breakable put away.

A wiffle ball or something similar filled with goodies. This makes for some good exercise. 

Exercise ball with goodies

Some like musical toys made for young children. Horns they can grab with their mouths or piano keys they can play with their noses provide challenging activities for our pets.

Remember that what one pig finds entertaining another might find just so-so. Have fun finding what your pig's favorite is.

Make sure that those outside pigs are getting exercise too during these winter months. If you have snow on the ground I suggest shoveling a path(s) so they can get out of their enclosure to go for a walk when weather permits, not just potty. We would sprinkle popcorn or pellets for them to search for.

Bonnie and Clyde searching for some goodies that I threw them to help keep them active.

One last thing for the outside pig is this feed dispenser that I came across. Make sure that the holes are big enough for the pellets to come out of, but don't drill too many of them as you want them to "work" for them. Make sure it is at snout level so your pig doesn't have to look up to get the treats out. 

Outside feed dispenser for pigs.

Constipation In Pet Pigs

Is my pig constipated? Know what to look for and what to do to help your pig.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

What are the causes of not being able to poop? Some causes of constipation include:

•     Changes to diet or activities.
•     Not enough water or fiber in the diet.
•     Inclement weather.
•     Not being active.
•     Resisting the urge to poop.
•     Stress.
•     Some medications (especially strong pain drugs such as narcotics)

Pigs will vary in their bowel habits. Some pigs have large droppings that make you think a large animal passed through your yard in the night, others drop little berries like a rabbit and you wonder how he can eat so much and have so little exit. Most pigs go every day sometimes twice, but have the ability to hold it for many days. Know what is normal for your pig in his habits, the amount and size of your pigs droppings.

For the pig that is holding it and not used to riding in the car, most will defecate as soon as you take them for a ride around the block.

There is a difference between the pig that is being stubborn and not wanting to go potty from the constipated pig. The constipated pig will be straining to go potty.

Keeping healthy bowel action means keeping plenty of fresh fiber (grazing or fresh greens) and adequate water in their diet.This does not mean making them drink their pellets like soup, but encouraging them to drink more water by adding just a little...and I mean just a little fruit juice to their water and making sure that your pig chow is high in fiber. If your pig chow isn't high in fiber you can just a couple of scoops of Piggy Lax daily.

Pigs that don’t drink plenty of water need additional foods containing it. Just a few foods that are high in water content are: Watermelon, Strawberries, Cantaloupe, Cucumber, Peaches, Lettuce, Celery & Zucchini. It's also a good idea to keep a can of pumpkin in the pantry as it helps ease digestion.

If the constipation turns out to be an obstruction then surgery is required. This is rare with outdoor pigs but way too common in house-pigs who ingest carpet and blanket fibers which are not digestible and build up in the colon as solid masses. These pigs are usually off their feed and have painful abdomens. They should see a vet ASAP.

The older the pig the more likely they are to sleep most of the day and thus they are not active. Here the pigs are made to get up twice a day for meals and potty. It might not be a lot of walking, but some is better than none. Get those older pigs up and moving about at least twice a day.

Teeth and Tusks In The Mini Pig

Teeth

Pigs are born with 8 teeth and the rest of the baby teeth erupt by 3 months of age. At about 5 months of age the permanent teeth will start coming in and will continue until 18-20 months of age. Be sure to watch for and save those baby teeth for the tooth fairy. Teething can be uncomfortable for your pig so you may hear him grinding his teeth occasionally and/or wanting something to chew on during this time.

Provided by:  The Veterinary Journal for  Miniature Pets

Grinding Teeth

Yes, pigs will grind their teeth for a variety of reasons. Most will do it when teething, others do it to keep those tusks sharp. Or, he could be a little distressed. It comes with the territory.

Our pigs tend to have lower front teeth that will stick out farther than their upper teeth. This is called an undershot bite and is normal.

Clyde showing off his undershot bite and tusks.

Teeth cleaning to prevent decay is desirable, but not essential.  I have never done it here as I like having ten fingers. Others use a soft child's toothbrush or simply put some toothpaste on their finger and let the pig eat it. Pigs are prone to tooth decay because of their love for food, so care should be given when feeding sweets and fruits which are loaded with calories and sugar thus leading to cavities. However, a close examination of the teeth and jaw for signs of abscesses, especially in older pigs, is essential.

This is a molar from Hansel who is 18. You are seeing the top and bottom of it.

The molar above is from Hansel who is 18. I actually watched as he spit it out after dinner one evening. It was at least a good 2 weeks before he could get the hang of eating without it and he wanted only soft food and smaller pieces of his nightly treat. Thankfully no abscesses.

Tusks

Do all pigs grow tusks? Yes, all pigs grow tusks. This, of course, includes potbelly pigs. Female pot bellied pigs grow small tusks that rarely get large enough to stick out of their mouth. In fact they usually look like the rest of their teeth. Neutered males will have a nice set of tusks that usually grow large enough to protrude from the mouth. This will start to happen at about two to three years of age.

Nicholas is just a little over a year old and you can see his tusks just starting to show.

As our pigs age, tusk growth slows. Growth is driven by testosterone in early life.

This is Harley at age 17 and no tusk trims needed in the last 7 years.

Tusks need not be trimmed unless they are causing a problem for the pig or you. NEVER let anyone trim the tusks if the pig is awake and screaming. He can accidentally inhale the tusk. Tusk trimming is best done by your vet while using Isoflurane gas anesthesia. IF you are like most of us and have a mobile vet ask them about using Midazolam if necessary. This is a mild sedative which is very safe and the pig never really goes "under", just dozy and wakes slowly and naturally. NOTE: You will need to know your pigs weight (NO guessing) so that the correct amount can be given. It is not necessary to put the pig under...most vets are able to trim the tusks while the pig is flipped for his hoof trim.

Most vets will use what is called a Gigli Wire which is like a saw to cut the tusk off. Make sure that at least 1/2 inch or more of tusk is left. The gums have a tendency to become infected if the tusk is trimmed to close to the gum line. Also, DO NOT have anyone remove the tusks! They are part of the jawbone and removal will cause serious problems! Again, this is definitely a job for a vet or experienced trimmer... anesthesia may be required.

Tusks will continue to grow for the life of the pig. They are the top and bottom canines and both curve upwards. In the wild the tusks wear down or break off, however, this isn't likely with the pet pig. Clyde was one of those pigs that never needed a tusk trim and was neutered at about 8-12 months of age. He was constantly grinding them...they were nice and sharp, but short enough at the same time not to cause any issues.

Just a few of the tusks removed from a couple of my boys over the years.

As you can see from the picture above I like to let the tusks grow until they start to be a problem. Porky's were just starting to go into his cheek when I was looking for a new vet. He was a bit of a challenge being 205lbs, but with a little Telazol the vet and her assistant were able to safely trim them back and we are now good for another couple of years. Porky was up and his normal self in about 30-60 minutes. NOTE: I am not fond of injectables, but there is a time and place for them and this was one of them. Porky ended up sitting on the syringe with needle in his butt. Vet guessed that he had received half of what she was planning to give him...and it ended up being the right amount for him. He was a little drunk /wobbly after the trimming, but able to stand on all 4's after about 30-60 minutes of a good nap.

Can the tusks be removed? NO, they should never be removed as they are part of the jaw. Tusks are not teeth. The root of the tusk is deep in the jaw. Removing a tusk is dangerous, expensive and painful, because the jaw must be broken to remove the root. Normally this surgery is done only when there's a medically necessary reason (cancer or deep infection). Most vets won’t do it. If a vet says he will remove the tusks...look for another vet. The blood supply and nerves are below the gum line so they can be trimmed down, but never to the gum line. Always make sure that at least 1/2 inch or more is left. Cutting all the way to the gum line can lead to other issues like a abscess. Tusks are NOT TEETH and will grow for the pigs whole life. Don't confuse the word "removed" with "trimmed". They mean two different things.