Showing posts with label potbellied pig. Show all posts
Showing posts with label potbellied pig. Show all posts

Saturday, April 12, 2025

Spiders and Snakes: Are Pigs Immune To Their Bites

Spider and Snake Bites in Pigs - information on spider bites, snake bites, and how to respond in both cases. The importance of seeking immediate veterinary care for both types of bites.

Spider Bites: Most spider bites are minor, but some, such as the black widow, brown widow, and brown recluse spiders, can be dangerous. Symptoms of a bite from one of these might include initial swelling and redness, followed by intense pain, abdominal pain, and sweating.  

Brown recluse spiders are commonly found indoors in dark areas like closets, cellars, and under furniture. Black widow and brown widow spiders can be found hiding under things such as tables, chairs, the base of potted plants and under the lip of kiddie pools.

Brown Widow spider under lip of kiddie pool
Brown Widow Spider under lip of a kiddie pool.

Treatment involves cleaning the wound, applying a cool compress, over-the-counter pain relievers, and prompt medical attention if symptoms worsen or the bite's source is unknown.

Swollen hand from brown widow spider bite
Swollen hand from Brown Widow Spider bite.  

To my knowledge none of my pigs have ever been bitten by a spider. However, one got me a couple of years ago when I grabbed the kiddie pool to flip it over for cleaning. It was extremely painful.
 

Snake Bites: It's a dangerous misconception that pigs are immune to snake bites. While they may have some natural defenses, they are not immune. While pigs possess a thicker layer of skin and a substantial layer of adipose tissue (fat) which can slow the absorption of venom into the bloodstream. This provides a degree of resistance, not immunity. This adipose tissue acts as a buffer, making it harder for the venom to reach blood vessels quickly.

Venom still reaches the bloodstream, and bites in areas with less fat are more dangerous. Pigs' natural inclination to kill snakes highlights the importance of treating every snake as potentially venomous. Prevention involves recognizing local snake species, and assuming any bite is venomous. Key actions include restricting the pig's movement, immobilizing the bite area, keeping the pig calm, and immediately seeking veterinary attention.

Treatment Recommendations: Do not attempt to capture or kill the snake. Avoid cutting the bite wound, applying ice packs/tourniquets, or administering any medication without veterinary guidance. Prompt veterinary care is critical. Antivenom is a primary treatment (if available), though it can be expensive and has potential allergic reactions. The goal with snake bites is to slow venom spread.

Identification: It can be a challenge to distinguish between venomous and harmless snakes, thus treat all snakes as potentially dangerous. You can use a few identification tips, including checking eye shape, head shape, presence of heat-sensing pits, and rattles. But, if you are like me, I don't want to get that close. Understanding bite marks, noting close puncture marks from fangs, and ragged bite marks from non-venomous snakes, can also help determine if a snake was poisonous.

The snakes pictured below are both from my yard. I had never heard of the Coach Whip and with some research after taking this picture was able to find that it is not interested in attacking one of my pigs. It is hunting small rodents like mice, rats and squirrels. The Coral Snake is the second one that I have seen in my yard in a couple of months. A neighbor killed the first one. This one slithered away.

 

Coach Whip Snake

Coral Snake
 

Key Takeaways:  Both spider and snake bites can pose serious risks to pigs. Prompt veterinary intervention, proper first aid, and a cautious approach to both animals are crucial. 

Understanding local snakes and treating every snake as a potential threat are vital for pig safety.

 

Saturday, August 22, 2020

Constipation In Pet Pigs

Is my pig constipated? Know what to look for and what to do to help your pig.

Pig On A Toilet


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

What are the causes of not being able to poop? Some causes of constipation include:

  •     Changes to diet or activities.
  •     Not enough water or fiber in the diet.
  •     Inclement weather.
  •     Not being active.
  •     Resisting the urge to poop.
  •     Stress.
  •     Some medications (especially strong pain drugs such as narcotics)

Pigs will vary in their bowel habits. Some pigs have large droppings that make you think a large animal passed through your yard in the night, others drop little berries like a rabbit and you wonder how he can eat so much and have so little exit. Most pigs go every day sometimes twice, but have the ability to hold it for many days. Know what is normal for your pig in his habits, the amount and size of your pigs droppings.

For the pig that is holding it and not used to riding in the car, most will defecate as soon as you take them for a ride around the block.

There is a difference between the pig that is being stubborn and not wanting to go potty from the constipated pig. The constipated pig will be straining to go potty.

Keeping healthy bowel action means keeping plenty of fresh fiber (grazing or fresh greens) and adequate water in their diet.This does not mean making them drink their pellets like soup, but encouraging them to drink more water by adding just a little...and I mean just a little fruit juice to their water and making sure that your pig chow is high in fiber. If your pig chow isn't high in fiber you can just a couple of scoops of Piggy Lax daily.

Pigs that don’t drink plenty of water need additional foods containing it. Just a few foods that are high in water content are: Watermelon, Strawberries, Cantaloupe, Cucumber, Peaches, Lettuce, Celery & Zucchini. It's also a good idea to keep a can of pumpkin in the pantry as it helps ease digestion.

If the constipation turns out to be an obstruction then surgery is required. This is rare with outdoor pigs but way too common in house-pigs who ingest carpet and blanket fibers which are not digestible and build up in the colon as solid masses. These pigs are usually off their feed and have painful abdomens. They should see a vet ASAP.

The older the pig the more likely they are to sleep most of the day and thus they are not active. Here the pigs are made to get up twice a day for meals and potty. It might not be a lot of walking, but some is better than none. Get those older pigs up and moving about at least twice a day.

Tuesday, January 1, 2019

New Year's Resolutions for Your Pig | 2019 The Year Of The Pig

It's 2019 and like most of us you have made some kind of resolution(s) for the new year. The most common are to get more exercise, eat healthier and save money. Here are just a few suggestions that might help you and your piggy succeed in 2019.

Eat Healthier: Since we control what our pigs eat, it is generally our fault if they are over or underweight. Though most pigs tend to be overweight there are those that are underweight as either the breeder or vet has told you to only feed 1/4 - 1/2 of chow a day. This is NOT enough for a pig, especially a growing pig during their first year of life when they need that feed to build a strong immune system and bones.

Flower getting every last bite of food.

We all love giving our pigs treats as we know how cute they can be and will do almost anything for one. Remember that a treat is just that "a treat". It must be earned, and not part of their daily meals. For those pigs that tend to "pig out" you might want to try our Busy Ball which is meant to slow our pigs down and the meal last longer. They are also getting some exercise at the same time.

More Exercise: Not to worry, I'm not talking about lifting weights or jogging, but making sure that your pig gets up and out at least twice a day. A nice walk around the yard or in the house on those rain/snow days will work just as well. This also helps with the pig that gets constipated. 


Oshay's version of working out!

Learn a New Trick: Our pigs love to learn new things so why not teach a new trick or take a behavior that they are doing naturally and turn it into a trick. Remember that when teaching new behaviors to keep the training sessions short and always end with a win for your pig even if it means doing a behavior that he already knows like sit. Lots of small treats work in the beginning, but remember to show lots of enthusiasm and praise. As the sessions go on; less treats and more praise and enthusiasm.

Mini obstacle course at the 2006 Pignic.

Save More Money: Our goal has always been and will continue to be to offer the highest quality products for your pet pig at affordable prices. Did you know that we now offer free shipping on most of our light weight products? Did you know that we offer monthly specials on our most popular products? Be sure to check back monthly to see if your favorite product is on special.




Happy New Year from all of us at Pigs4Ever!


Sunday, February 11, 2007

Breeds Of Mini Pigs In The United States




VIETNAMESE POTBELLY PIG:

Potbellies have long been shown in zoos around the world. They originated in Vietnam and were brought to the U. S. through Canada in 1985 by Keith Connell with the intention of supplying zoos. Instead people started buying them as pets. The first potbellies were much larger pigs weighing between 150 to 200 lbs. Their general appearance is a swayed back, pronounced potbelly; erect ears, short turned up nose with a straight tail. The main color is black, but potbellies can also be white, black and white (including pinto and fancy pinto coloring), spotted, collared, and even a silver color.  Potbellied pigs reach adult size at about 4 years. Weights vary with averages ranging from 90-150 lbs.   






KUNEKUNE:

KuneKune pigs are thought to have originated in China from an old Polish Breed. They arrived in New Zealand sometime in the late 1700s. In New Zealand they were kept by Maori communities and were unknown to the rest of the world. In the early 1800s they were introduced to Europeans by whalers or traders. They are now widely spread throughout New Zealand with some being exported to the United Kingdom and the United States.  

They are a relatively small pig with a short-legged, round appearance with a short upturned nose and curly tail. KuneKune is a Polynesian word for plump. A distinctive appearance on some KuneKunes is their piri piri (tassels or wattles) hanging from their lower jaw. Colors range from black, black and white, gold, tan and brown.  

KuneKunes have a calm, friendly temperament and seem to thrive on human companionship. During summer months they can easily maintain themselves on grazing alone. Therefore, they make excellent lawnmowers and don’t typically root.         

GUINEA HOGS (AFRICAN PYGMY):

Guinea Hogs are a breed of pig unique to North America and it is believed they are the descendants of pigs brought over from Africa with the slave trade. The early African pigs were red, large, and bristly. Modern Guineas are a smaller, all black pig. They were common in the South prior to the Civil War as they were small, docile pigs and considered easy keepers. They provided food for the poor in the rural U. S. Over the years they have been called many names such as acorn eaters and yard pigs.  Homesteaders would tether them in their yard because of their great foraging abilities and to catch and eat snakes. They prefer grazing rather than rooting for their meals.    

Guinea Hogs have a very gentle temperament and small size making them easy to handle. Their weights average from 100 to 300 lbs.  They are not sway backed or potbellied.  They are a stocky pig with short legs, moderately short snout, medium sized upright ears, and tails with a kink. Their coats are shiny black in color and very bristly.

After the Civil War, when farmers went to confinement methods of farming their numbers declined. They are now considered by the American Livestock Breeds Conservancy as critical in need of conservation.   

FERAL PIGS: 

Note: Feral pigs and European Wild Boars may not be considered by some to be a mini-pig. However, because of their smallness when compared to a farm hog, I’ve included them in this article.

Feral pigs go by many names depending on the part of the country where they reside.  Some names include:  Razorback, Gulf Pig, Florida Swamp Hog, Pineywoods, Pinewoods Rooter, Choctaw, and Catalina. The most common states where they can be found are Arkansas, Oklahoma, Louisiana, Florida, Alabama, Georgia, Texas, and California.  

They are shaggy rough-looking pigs with forward-pointed to upright ears, long snouts and very lean bodies. Feral pigs are descended from domesticated pigs that escaped or were released. Some even have some Eurasian Wild Boar in their ancestry. Solid black is the most common color, but you can find almost any color or color pattern.   

EUROPEAN WILD BOARS:

European Wild Boars are also called, Eurasian Wild Boars or Russian Wild Boars. They have a long narrow snout with long tusks, pointy ears with a tufted straight tail. They have a very bristly coat with an undercoat in the winter. They range in color from blackish brown to tan to gray with a lighter colored belly. They also have grizzled hairs on their face and throat which contrast against their dark colored snout. They range in size from 160 to 500 lbs.

Piglets have a striped body making them resemble a chipmunk. As the piglet matures it looses its striping.      

Wild boars have been introduced to a wide variety of places around the world. Since they share the same habitat as feral domesticated pigs, most populations of wild pigs are probably mixed with the wild boar.  

OSSABAW ISLAND PIG:

Ossabaw pigs are a feral pig that can be found on Ossabaw Island off the coast of Georgia. They were brought for food by the Spanish when they first came to the New World five centuries ago. Since pigs were a fresh food supply, the Spanish routinely dropped them off on large islands all over the Caribbean from Cuba to Ossabaw. They come in a wide variety of solid and spotted colors although solid white is rare. They are a lively, friendly pig with a long snout, heavy coat, and prick ears.  

Ossabaws have a low-grade form of diabetes and have a unique system of fat metabolism. During times when food is sparse, they can live off the fat stored in their bodies. Because of the diabetes and their system of fat metabolism, they are valued highly as laboratory animals to study diabetes, nutrition, and obesity.   

JULIANI (PAINTED MINIATURE): 

Many older books on mini-pigs mention the Juliani pig. However, while researching this article, I could find no mention of them on the Internet or in books on pig breeds. Therefore, there is some doubt about their true origins and some thought that they might have been a cross for the purpose of marketing them as something different during the height of the pet pig craze. Older mini-pig books state the same information regarding the Juliani pig which I’ve included in this article.  

According to the older mini-pig books, Juliani Pigs can be traced back to Europe and were developed through a selective breeding program to enhance their small size. Their colors can be red, red and black, red and white, white, white and black, black, silver and silver and white. They have longer legs than a potbelly and are usually smaller with a slight potbelly. Their ears are small to medium in size and they have a straight tail. Some of our pet pigs might be a mixture of Juliani and potbelly pig. 

YUCATAN PIG (MEXICAN HAIRLESS):

Yucatan pigs originated in Mexico and Central America. They are slate gray to black in color with very sparse hair to completely bald. They have straight backs and bellies, short snouts and medium sized ears. Their temperament is very gentle. Because their skin and body systems are similar to humans, they are often the pig of choice for laboratories. Normally their size can range up to 210lbs but laboratories have bred them even smaller with weights ranging from 50 to 100lbs.

PECCARY:

Peccaries or Javelinas as they are sometimes called are not really pigs but are the closest relative to the pig. They differ from pigs in that they have a second navel located on the lower back about a half-foot from the end of the tail. This nipple gives off a musky secretion which is used for marking territories. They also differ in that pigs have four toes on each foot while a Javelina has four on their forefeet but only two on their hind. Pigs also have six to twenty mammary glands while Javelinas have only four. Javelinas have a complex chambered stomach with no gallbladder. Pigs have a gallbladder and a simple chambered stomach. 

Peccaries weigh from 35-65 lbs and look like a small bristly pig. Their bristles are dark brown or black-gray with white tips. They also have a white collar which goes from the chest to over the shoulders.  

Peccaries are native to Southern Texas, Arizona, and New Mexico. Their herds are ruled by a female and can vary from 2 to 20 members, some even reaching 50.