Breeds Of Mini Pigs In The United States

VIETNAMESE POTBELLY PIG:

Potbellies have long been shown in zoos around the world. They originated in Vietnam and were brought to the U. S. through Canada in 1985 by Keith Connell with the intention of supplying zoos. Instead people started buying them as pets. The first potbellies were much larger pigs weighing between 150 to 200 lbs. Their general appearance is a swayed back, pronounced potbelly; erect ears, short turned up nose with a straight tail. The main color is black, but potbellies can also be white, black and white (including pinto and fancy pinto coloring), spotted, collared, and even a silver color.  Potbellied pigs reach adult size at about 4 years. Weights vary with averages ranging from 90-150 lbs.   

KUNEKUNE:

KuneKune pigs are thought to have originated in China from an old Polish Breed. They arrived in New Zealand sometime in the late 1700s. In New Zealand they were kept by Maori communities and were unknown to the rest of the world. In the early 1800s they were introduced to Europeans by whalers or traders. They are now widely spread throughout New Zealand with some being exported to the United Kingdom and the United States.  

They are a relatively small pig with a short-legged, round appearance with a short upturned nose and curly tail. KuneKune is a Polynesian word for plump. A distinctive appearance on some KuneKunes is their piri piri (tassels or wattles) hanging from their lower jaw. Colors range from black, black and white, gold, tan and brown.  

KuneKunes have a calm, friendly temperament and seem to thrive on human companionship. During summer months they can easily maintain themselves on grazing alone. Therefore, they make excellent lawnmowers and don’t typically root.         

GUINEA HOGS (AFRICAN PYGMY):

Guinea Hogs are a breed of pig unique to North America and it is believed they are the descendants of pigs brought over from Africa with the slave trade. The early African pigs were red, large, and bristly. Modern Guineas are a smaller, all black pig. They were common in the South prior to the Civil War as they were small, docile pigs and considered easy keepers. They provided food for the poor in the rural U. S. Over the years they have been called many names such as acorn eaters and yard pigs.  Homesteaders would tether them in their yard because of their great foraging abilities and to catch and eat snakes. They prefer grazing rather than rooting for their meals.    

Guinea Hogs have a very gentle temperament and small size making them easy to handle. Their weights average from 100 to 300 lbs.  They are not sway backed or potbellied.  They are a stocky pig with short legs, moderately short snout, medium sized upright ears, and tails with a kink. Their coats are shiny black in color and very bristly.

After the Civil War, when farmers went to confinement methods of farming their numbers declined. They are now considered by the American Livestock Breeds Conservancy as critical in need of conservation.   

FERAL PIGS: 

Note: Feral pigs and European Wild Boars may not be considered by some to be a mini-pig. However, because of their smallness when compared to a farm hog, I’ve included them in this article.

Feral pigs go by many names depending on the part of the country where they reside.  Some names include:  Razorback, Gulf Pig, Florida Swamp Hog, Pineywoods, Pinewoods Rooter, Choctaw, and Catalina. The most common states where they can be found are Arkansas, Oklahoma, Louisiana, Florida, Alabama, Georgia, Texas, and California.  

They are shaggy rough-looking pigs with forward-pointed to upright ears, long snouts and very lean bodies. Feral pigs are descended from domesticated pigs that escaped or were released. Some even have some Eurasian Wild Boar in their ancestry. Solid black is the most common color, but you can find almost any color or color pattern.   

EUROPEAN WILD BOARS:

European Wild Boars are also called, Eurasian Wild Boars or Russian Wild Boars. They have a long narrow snout with long tusks, pointy ears with a tufted straight tail. They have a very bristly coat with an undercoat in the winter. They range in color from blackish brown to tan to gray with a lighter colored belly. They also have grizzled hairs on their face and throat which contrast against their dark colored snout. They range in size from 160 to 500 lbs.

Piglets have a striped body making them resemble a chipmunk. As the piglet matures it looses its striping.      

Wild boars have been introduced to a wide variety of places around the world. Since they share the same habitat as feral domesticated pigs, most populations of wild pigs are probably mixed with the wild boar.  

OSSABAW ISLAND PIG:

Ossabaw pigs are a feral pig that can be found on Ossabaw Island off the coast of Georgia. They were brought for food by the Spanish when they first came to the New World five centuries ago. Since pigs were a fresh food supply, the Spanish routinely dropped them off on large islands all over the Caribbean from Cuba to Ossabaw. They come in a wide variety of solid and spotted colors although solid white is rare. They are a lively, friendly pig with a long snout, heavy coat, and prick ears.  

Ossabaws have a low-grade form of diabetes and have a unique system of fat metabolism. During times when food is sparse, they can live off the fat stored in their bodies. Because of the diabetes and their system of fat metabolism, they are valued highly as laboratory animals to study diabetes, nutrition, and obesity.   

JULIANI (PAINTED MINIATURE): 

Many older books on mini-pigs mention the Juliani pig. However, while researching this article, I could find no mention of them on the Internet or in books on pig breeds. Therefore, there is some doubt about their true origins and some thought that they might have been a cross for the purpose of marketing them as something different during the height of the pet pig craze. Older mini-pig books state the same information regarding the Juliani pig which I’ve included in this article.  

According to the older mini-pig books, Juliani Pigs can be traced back to Europe and were developed through a selective breeding program to enhance their small size. Their colors can be red, red and black, red and white, white, white and black, black, silver and silver and white. They have longer legs than a potbelly and are usually smaller with a slight potbelly. Their ears are small to medium in size and they have a straight tail. Some of our pet pigs might be a mixture of Juliani and potbelly pig. 

YUCATAN PIG (MEXICAN HAIRLESS):

Yucatan pigs originated in Mexico and Central America. They are slate gray to black in color with very sparse hair to completely bald. They have straight backs and bellies, short snouts and medium sized ears. Their temperament is very gentle. Because their skin and body systems are similar to humans, they are often the pig of choice for laboratories. Normally their size can range up to 210lbs but laboratories have bred them even smaller with weights ranging from 50 to 100lbs.

PECCARY:

Peccaries or Javelinas as they are sometimes called are not really pigs but are the closest relative to the pig. They differ from pigs in that they have a second navel located on the lower back about a half-foot from the end of the tail. This nipple gives off a musky secretion which is used for marking territories. They also differ in that pigs have four toes on each foot while a Javelina has four on their forefeet but only two on their hind. Pigs also have six to twenty mammary glands while Javelinas have only four. Javelinas have a complex chambered stomach with no gallbladder. Pigs have a gallbladder and a simple chambered stomach. 

Peccaries weigh from 35-65 lbs and look like a small bristly pig. Their bristles are dark brown or black-gray with white tips. They also have a white collar which goes from the chest to over the shoulders.  

Peccaries are native to Southern Texas, Arizona, and New Mexico. Their herds are ruled by a female and can vary from 2 to 20 members, some even reaching 50.   

Cold Weather and Pneumonia

Question: How long can I leave my house pig outside for potty duty in the winter time?

When it really gets dead of winter we only leave them out long enough to do their business and bring them back in again....but then they are always banging at the door to come in anyway!

The reason we don't leave them out long is that they are house pigs and after all night at one temperature we don't want them to have to try to acclimate to the cold temp then back to the warm again.

Drastic changes of temperature can cause respiratory problems like pneumonia. Going out to potty is OK but, we don't like them out there for more than an hour because of the change in temp and the body trying to adjust to it. Pigs that are kept outside all the time get their body temp regulated to that...the same holds true for the indoor house pigs.

Pneumonia: We put this out every year but maybe for new people we should do it again. Pig's don't usually show many symptoms of pneumonia. They don't cough etc. They quit eating!! But most don't even show the labored breathing until it becomes life threatening.

IF A PIG QUITS EATING YOU HAVE A PROBLEM! IF A PIG STARTS PICKING AT HIS FOOD...YOU HAVE A PROBLEM!

A pig is not like a dog...pig's love to eat and they don't get tired of the same diet...they don't get bored with food...they don't quit eating with the idea of getting something better. IF A PIG DOESN'T EAT THERE IS A PROBLEM!

There are other illness that might cause this, but this time of the year, on an average age pig, pneumonia is the most common reason. Most pneumonia's are easily fixed if you catch it EARLY and start treatment as soon as possible.

Seek vet help right away and explain that you think the pig has pneumonia. If it happens to be a weekend or holiday and no vet can be reached we put ours on any antibiotic we have here until the vet can be reached. This can be most of the antibiotics that humans have taken for infections etc. that might be in your home. Most people have Ampicillin or Amoxycillin on hand. If your on good terms with your vet you might ask for just a few of these pills to keep on hand for this kind of emergency use.

As soon as that pig refuses his feed we start treatment until we can get to the vet. If the pig isn't interested in food at all put the antibiotic in a syringe with a little liquid and squirt it into his mouth. If a pig is completely down...and this is something that does happen with some pneumonia's...from the time you feed in the morning and they are fine...till that night they can be completely down.

We use the injectable antibiotics that you can buy at the farm or feed store if the vet isn't readily available. (I know someone is going to say they couldn't give a shot...you can and will if that's what it takes to save your pig.)

Their recovery can be just as rapid as the time it took them to go down. Some are up and eating by the next morning, but then they go on oral meds for five to seven days. It's just very important that you start treatment as soon as possible and get to the vet as soon as you are able.

This is also where that thermometer comes in handy. Take his temp so you can tell the vet he is running a fever. Normal temp for a potbelly is 99 to 101 ANYTHING over that is a fever. Farm pigs are normal at 102. For the pots pneumonia temps are usually in the 102 to 104 range at the very beginning. The key to quick and complete recovery is quick treatment before the lungs are compromised.

Things Of Interest - Cancer and Pyometra In The Pet Pig

This has been a bad year for hearing and seeing some things that are new or that have been here that we just had not had diagnosed in earlier times. Just as we found out as time went on about the different pneumonia's that probably accounted for a good many deaths of pigs in the early days of their entry into this country, we are constantly finding more things to worry about.

As our vet care and pet stewardship has progressed, our pigs are living longer lives and more is learned as we go along. We are hearing and seeing more cancer and non-malignant tumors and more uterine infections (pyometra) in our older females.

Non-Malignant Tumors:

We all remember the pig in California two years ago with the 70 pound tumor that was removed and the pig survived and is doing well. This was not as unusual a case as we all thought at the time, there have been several pigs across the country with the same problem just this year.

As pet people what you want to know is how do you know if your pet has a problem like this. This rescue pig with seventy pound tumor was not hard since the pig had a belly so big that it couldn't get up if in a prone position and the pig for the most part was skin and bones. It didn't take a brain surgeon to figure out something was wrong with that one.

There are cases where the tumor isn't that large and the symptoms are very hard to catch except by the most discerning pet owner. Maybe a slight swelling on one side or a too full look in the belly area. For the most part in the beginning the pig continues to eat and acts almost normal. The pig usually does not have a temperature so why would one think there is a problem?

We find it interesting that in all cases that we have heard of and seen at this point in time were in un-altered older female pigs.

Picture of a pig with a tumor.

Pictures of the tumor that was removed from Popcycle the potbellied pig

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cancers:

So far this year we have seen or heard of just about all forms of cancer that affect humans showing up in potbellied pigs.  We have had inquires about skin cancers from pigs in Arizona and at our own sanctuary in the last two years we have seen cancer of the mammary gland and pancreatic cancer. This was the exception as far as unaltered goes as he was a young altered male pig. Also cancerous growths have shown up on the vulva of two very old intact female pigs.

We have removed one cancerous testicle from a boar that was brought in with one retained testicle. The visible testicle was twice the normal size and had a golf ball size tumor in it. The males however still seem to have a less likely chance of having the problems that the unaltered females seem to have.

When I spoke here last year I reminded people to do those tummy rubs often and be thorough about it. You are checking for lumps and bumps and giving the pig the time of it's life at the same time. The same holds true for the rest of the pig's body. Any lump or growth that you find needs to be seen by your vet as soon as possible. Pigs can have fatty tumors that are not life threatening and they may have lumps for other reasons, but better safe than sorry.

My veterinarian tells me that there is no blood test available that will pick any of this up at the early stages of development of either of these types of tumors.

Pyometra or Uterine Infections:

Pyometra is an infection inside the uterus of un-spayed female pigs. Those of us that have had dogs for many years are probably more aware of this problem and how it affects the animals. The only saving grace for this problems is the fact that it can have very definite symptoms and the animal will run a fever. This makes the diagnosis much easier for your vet.

Most are older females (have had some in younger females) showing a discharge from the vulva. There has been however several cases where the infection is confined inside the uterus without showing the discharge or in such a manner that it was not noticed by the owner.

Pyometra, if left untreated can be fatal to your pet. In untreated cases the uterus may burst and spread the infection through the body in the form of peritonitis. We have discussed several times about the time to worry being when your pet refuses his food or does not eat with the gusto that you are used to seeing.

The best "fix" for Pyometra is to have the pig spayed. Antibiotics may help in the beginning stages and even hold the infection down when it is further along, but it has been our experience that it returns with a vengeance in most cases. If not treated aggressively and early and the uterus bursts than you have the peritonitis to contend with which is even more life threatening than the Pyometra itself.

This problem and the others that we have talked about here might make one wonder how much part the hormones play into all of this? This also tells that a spayed female pet pig has a better chance of living a long healthy life without these problems. In other words, it is ANOTHER good reason to spay your young girls that are pets!

This is not saying that we should all run out and have all our older girls spayed. It tells us that when we get them young it is to their advantage, and ours, to get it done if possible.

My vet still does not like to do an older female unless there are medical problems that make it absolutely necessary. Problems like we are talking about here. The risk on older pigs is much higher and surgery is much more difficult with older pigs. I refer to my wonderful Dr. Meyers famous quote "IF IT AIN'T BROKE DON'T FIX IT".

This is meant as new information to give us guidelines to go by now that we know a potential problem may show up down the road. It gives us more incentive to get even that single family pet that has no contact with males or a chance of being bred into a vet when they are still young enough to be spayed easily.

It also is a help to the sanctuary that does not adopt out, but who keeps these pigs for their entire lifetime. They have always neutered males as a matter of course, but have not seen the females being intact as a problem since no breeding could take place. We may now want to consider any young female under a year or even two years if the condition of the pig is good, as eligible for a spay upon arrival.

Copyrighted by Phyllis Battoe - All Rights Reserved

Uterine Infections, And Tumors: Another Reason To Spay Your Pig

The uterine infections and tumors has become a problem for pigs across the Country and seems to affect mostly the older girls that people have. The uterine infections happen only to females still intact. This may have to do with heat cycles etc. 

Tumors:  There are few symptoms of the growth of the tumors except to the most discerning eye of the owner. The pig may appear to have a swelling on one side or a distended stomach in one area. Eventually the loss of weight and overall well being of the pig is affected. In the early stages and sometimes in the later stages, there is no rise in temperature nor lack of appetite, both key things we watch for with our pigs.

Most of the cases with these kinds of tumors are non malignant, but not always. The tumors can grow to very large size before the diagnosis is made. One in CA was weighed in at 70 pounds (Pictures, warning: graphic) and one in PA caught early at 35 pounds. In most cases the prime area seems to be an attachment to the uterus.  The only cure for this is surgery.

It is far better to have that young pig spayed than to have to put an older pig through the surgery when it is compromised by the tumor once a tumor exists.  This is not to say that everyone should run out and spay these older females now that we know this, but it is reason to watch a little closer and mention should your pig show any of the above symptoms.

Spaying is not easy on an older pig and my vet personally really does not want to do them unless it is a medical necessity. So we aren't saying go out and find a vet to spay your old girls. This does however tell us that when at all possible, get them spayed as youngsters when it is easy on them. We have always known that spaying the one and only house pig still had lots of merit as the once a month PMS that the females can go through made life uneasy for all of us. This is another more important reason to have it done on our pets.

It also gives us something else to watch out for as much as possible. It is good that we are now aware of this problem and gives us a chance to discuss it with our vets should we think it's a problem to our own animals. 

Uterine Infections:  The uterine infections are also called Pyometra. This is an infection inside the uterus that can cause major problems and even death if not treated. Symptoms include running a temperature, poor appetite, general malaise of the pig and sometimes a discharge from the vulva. This is something that only intact females have and the most thorough treatment is a spay. 

Pigs that have the discharge are less likely to be as bad as those with no discharge. At least some of the infection is moving out. The discharge can be yellow or white and sometimes green.  Some pigs do not have any discharge and that means the uterus can be full of pus and infection. In severe cases left untreated the uterus breaks and peritonitis sets in which is often fatal.

Antibiotics can hold the infection down and in some early cases may appear to fix the problem, but it has been found that the safest surest way of treatment is a complete spay. This problem if caught early and treated can be fixed. Once again if the pig is spayed this would not be a problem at all.

Cancers:  We have long known that pigs are able to get cancer. One of the most common is the mammary gland type where you might find a hard knot on the teat line of the pig. (Gives you good reason for that belly rub every day as you feel for this.) Pigs have shown up with pancreatic cancer, skin cancer, lymph gland melanomas etc.

Females are showing cancer growths in the vulva area and intact males have shown it in their testicles. Its important that you go over your pig looking for any unusual lumps, bumps etc. on a routine basis. Not that I feel all are operable, but the vastness of our scientific research says that some are fixable.

I would never suggest surgery on old pigs that will stress easily or who will  probably be gone before the cancer ever gets them. For these a good quality of life for the time remaining, as long as the appetite stays good is the best we have to offer.

Copyrighted by Phyllis Battoe