You Have A Sick Pig - How to tell if your pig is sick, what to do if your pig is sick.

The best judge of the health of your pig is "YOU". You live with the pig, you see the pigs normal actions on a daily basis. You can tell when things are just a little off with your porcine friend. This is the time to take action as most things if caught in time, won't be fatal to your pig.

A sick pig looks sick! Pigs that do not feel well have a tendency to show it in their coat first. The hair will stand on end all over the pig much like a porcupine effect. Pigs also do this when cold, but not to the same degree.

A pig that is not interested wholeheartedly and one hundred percent in his food is a pig that is not well.  A pig loves to eat, it is the natural way of things. Unlike dogs or cats who will occasionally turn down a meal because it may not suit their taste that day, a pig is not picky. This cannot be stressed enough.

A pig that is not ready to eat is a pig that is not feeling well or is in extreme pain. (The exception to this is the boar pig who seems to have more interest in his testosterone than in the food supply.)

A pig standing with his back hunched and his hind legs far under the body is a sick pig. This is a stance that is seen with constipation, blockage, stomach aches, hernias, urinary tract problems and general pain in the abdominal or genital area.

What problems are most common? The illness of choice for these guys appears to be respiratory problems. There are several different forms of pneumonia's, some more critical than others, but all can be serious. Pneumonia is not always accompanied by coughing. Most of the time the first symptom is just not eating and elevated temperatures. Sometimes with the more serious forms there is labored breathing.

For what we call just plain old pig pneumonia, a good antibiotic shot will make all the difference in the world. Usually after one shot they will be up and eating again by the following day and then can go on to oral antibiotics for a period of five or six days or another shot in 3-4 days. This is a treatment that we use on any pig that decides it does not want to eat and is running a temperature.

If it's not pneumonia then the shot is not going to hurt them and if it is pneumonia the shot can save their lives and give you a head start on fixing the problem. You might ask your vet to dose at the high end of the scale as it appears that a pig takes a good dose to get through to the problem. A pig with pneumonia will run a temperature so first order is to get a temperature on your pig.

Constipation seems to be the second most common problem, especially in the older more sedate pigs. This usually occurs during the winter months when they aren't walking around as much. Sometimes they will give no symptoms at all other than a less than eager appetite and sometimes they will strain to go and pass very little as a result. This is where watching your pig can make the difference. You should know if your pig is going to the bathroom or not. Constipation can be serious with your pig if he does not show symptoms early.

First of all you want to make sure that there is something, even a small amount going through. When and if you determine that there is indeed a small amount being passed than you can try several methods to help him along.

I can't stress strongly enough that you need to make sure first that there is fecal matter being passed. A constipated pig will pass hard balls that crumble when stepped on and they will be few in number.

A few things to help your pig with constipation are Piggy Lax and Bulky Lax Plus. Used on a regular basis will help to keep constipation at bay. Canned pumpkin will help if you haven't been using Piggy Lax or Bulky Lax Plus. In extreme cases Dulcolax suppositories will help. All of these things are to be used ONLY on pigs that you see passing fecal matter. If the pig is not passing anything at all DO NOT USE ANY OF THE THINGS MENTIONED ABOVE as you could be dealing with a blockage instead of constipation. The pig does not usually run a temperature with a constipation problem.

Blockage is serious and life threatening. This is when the pig can't pass anything due to a blockage in the bowels. A pig with a blockage will not eat. They may not strain but they will be lethargic and may dig at the ground continually. The will stand hunkered up with their legs far under the body.

It is imperative that you get medical help for that pig as soon as possible. Most vets will be able to tell with ultrasound or x-ray just where the blockage may be and a blockage usually has to be dealt with using surgery. DO NOT give an enema or laxatives to a pig that is not passing anything as this could cost the pig its life.

By trying to force a blockage out it can rupture the intestine leaving the pig open to peritonitis which can be fatal. A pig with a blockage can go on for several days. He will not eat and is in pain. If it is a blockage his chance of recovery is good if taken to a vet early.

It is very important to remember if there is not stool from the pig DO NOT GIVE AN ENEMA! You must see something coming through before you even think about that treatment. A pig with a blockage will not necessarily run a temperature until the problem has become very serious.

The main tool for you and your vet is the pigs temperature. When a pig does not eat with his usual gusto there is a reason. The temperature can help you and your vet diagnose what the problem may be. This is done in the rectum and is fairly easy for even the novice to handle.

There was a study done on potbellied pigs in 1999. We discovered that the normal resting temperature for potbellied pigs is indeed lower than the commercial farm hogs. If your pig's temperature is 102 then your pig is running a fever and you and your pig need help.

Rudy's temp when he wasn't feeling well and the vet was called to come out.

 

Know what your pig's normal temperature is. Take your pig's temperature once a day for one week at the same time each day. This will help you and your vet know what your pig's average temperature is.

Through a study (JAVMA, Vol 215, No. 3, August 1, 1999) it was concluded that potbellied pigs have a lower rectal temperature than farm pigs (or swine). We did this on our pigs for 34 days straight in January/February of 1999 as part of a larger test and discovered that their average temperature was 99.3 degrees F, far less than what was believed to be normal.

The Last Hoorah

 This is for that day, hopefully in the distant future, when you might have to make one of the hardest choices out there. Of the 10 pigs that I have lost over the years I've only had to make the decision 3 times to help them go to the Rainbow Bridge. The first time was 10 years ago and the most recent was just a few weeks ago. Making that decision was still just as hard as it was the first time. I do not make this decision lightly and this last time ended up changing my mind, only to end up calling the vet back out a week later. Each time I've been right there with them till their last breath loving on them and talking to them. This is a decision that only you can make...no one else.

When the time comes and you are preparing for your pet pig's euthanasia, it is important to choose a veterinarian who has experience working with our pet pigs and who is familiar with the proper sedation protocol for pigs. They are different from dogs and cats and it's important to know the difference in order to provide a peaceful passing.

Having a pig for a pet you know that doing procedures on them can be a challenge. So, a peaceful euthanasia for our pet pigs means proper sedation with little to know stress. If the pig is down this normally isn't too much of a problem. For others you may be asked to help restrain them. It is important to be prepared on how to restrain your pig with the least amount of stress. A sorting board is recommended and he should be in an area where he can easily be cornered or pushed up against a wall. Once he is in position it will be safe for the vet to administer the first injection.

You want the vet to put your pig to sleep first before giving the pheno barb (Euthasol) solution. The formula used back in the 90's, yes the 90's was Rompan & Telazol (see below). My current vet just uses Telazol and my previous vet used a combination of (ketamine/xylazine/telazol) to put my pig to sleep before giving the Euthasol. The important thing is that the pig be completely asleep for the Euthasol. The injection of the Euthasol is given what is called Intracardiac. Intracardiac injections are injections that are given directly into the heart muscles or ventricles. This method is unacceptable and cruel if not done properly. When the pet is properly sedated, it is a painless and peaceful way of passing.

The Last Hoorah:
by Phyllis Battoe (Originally presented March 1998)

For that time that we never want to think about but is as much a part of life as anything else. What is the most humane way of putting a pig down? The less stress the better for all concerned.

When this time comes (and only you can decide this very personal issue) the thing we all want most for our porcine friends is to have them go peacefully to the Rainbow Bridge.

We use a formula here to put the pig to sleep (see end of article for formula) and after the pig is asleep we use the jugular, the same place most of you use for blood testing, and administer the pheno barb solution.

The pig is already asleep and this can be done easily. Needless to say that you need not be as careful with the dosage of the first injection of Telazol and Rompan when it is used for this purpose.

I only bring this unwanted subject up because there are people I here from all the time telling horror stories of what has happened. There have been many cases of giving the pig the injection directly into the heart without the pig being asleep first.

While this method is fast, I have trouble going along with it if there is a way to do it that I feel is more humane. This is something that you need to discuss with your vet before the time comes when you may not be thinking as clearly.

One last note here would be to ask you to stay with your friend until it is over. A hard thing to do for us but a good thing for the pet that has given so much to us.

In thirty-five years there has never been an animal here that went to the final sleep without the touch of many hands on their heads and the sound of my voice in their ear.

A hard thing for us to do but so little compared to what they have given in the short time we are allowed to have them with us.

Rough Formula:
For Larger Pets (50+ pounds)
1cc for every 50 pounds of body weight of Telazol
1cc for every 100 pounds of body weight of Rompan

Put both drugs in the same syringe and give in the neck muscle. Wait five minutes, pig will go down and be asleep.

More Detailed Formula:
For Smaller Pets (40-50 pounds)
2 mg for every pound of body weight of Telazol
1 mg for every pound of body weight of Rompan

Activities for Pet Pig Enrichment

It's the middle of winter and my pig is bored, what can I do to keep him entertained or what kind of toys do they like? Here are a few suggestions from the very simple to the more elaborate.

In my experience it doesn't always have to cost a lot of money to give your pig a few hours of entertainment a day. With our first pigs, Ziggy & Flower we would give them newspaper & magazines to shred...brown packing paper works just as well too. This was a favorite of Ziggy's and he would wear himself out within about 30 minutes...shaking and shredding the paper and jumping around. Other days we would roll grapes across the room for them to go after. I know not real exciting, but it got them up and moving about. We eventually made them a rooting box which we filled with fist sized river rocks and would then put either their pellets or popcorn in it for them. 

Flower in her rooting box.

Rooting Box: This is a great indoor activity. Appropriate items for a rooting box are anything safe and big enough to not swallow or too sharp. We used fist sized river rocks with ours, but many now use play pit balls, large stones, stuffed animals, an assortment of toys, blankets, anything your pig can search through will work fine. We made our rooting box out of wood while most folks use a kiddie pool. I have even seen where someone took an end table and turned it upside down to make their rooting box.

Using a pool as a rooting box.

 

What kind of toys do our pet pigs like?
In my experience most pigs don't care for toys like a dog would, but here are a few toys and ideas for keeping piggy entertained that you can try.

Put some peanut butter into the center of a bobble toy and then let your pig roll it around as it licks peanut butter out of it.

Any rope toys designed for dogs are also good for a pig. A milk jug or liter bottle with a few holes and pig pellets added. Your pig will push this all over the house until each little pellet has fallen out and eaten.

Another use of the 2 liter pop bottle is to remove the cap, make holes a little bigger than pig pellets. Vary the holes from about 2 inches from the bottom to about 4 inches from the bottom so he doesn't get frustrated. Take some twine and tie around top to an anchored ceiling hook. Make sure it hangs at snout level so he doesn't have to look up constantly.

Balls seem to make a lot of pigs happy as well. Big balls like bowling balls, sports balls, such as basketballs or soccer balls are all good choices. Just make sure you put anything breakable put away.

A wiffle ball or something similar filled with goodies. This makes for some good exercise. 

Exercise ball with goodies

Some like musical toys made for young children. Horns they can grab with their mouths or piano keys they can play with their noses provide challenging activities for our pets.

Remember that what one pig finds entertaining another might find just so-so. Have fun finding what your pig's favorite is.

Make sure that those outside pigs are getting exercise too during these winter months. If you have snow on the ground I suggest shoveling a path(s) so they can get out of their enclosure to go for a walk when weather permits, not just potty. We would sprinkle popcorn or pellets for them to search for.

Bonnie and Clyde searching for some goodies that I threw them to help keep them active.

One last thing for the outside pig is this feed dispenser that I came across. Make sure that the holes are big enough for the pellets to come out of, but don't drill too many of them as you want them to "work" for them. Make sure it is at snout level so your pig doesn't have to look up to get the treats out. 

Outside feed dispenser for pigs.