Constipation In Pet Pigs

Is my pig constipated? Know what to look for and what to do to help your pig.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

What are the causes of not being able to poop? Some causes of constipation include:

•     Changes to diet or activities.
•     Not enough water or fiber in the diet.
•     Inclement weather.
•     Not being active.
•     Resisting the urge to poop.
•     Stress.
•     Some medications (especially strong pain drugs such as narcotics)

Pigs will vary in their bowel habits. Some pigs have large droppings that make you think a large animal passed through your yard in the night, others drop little berries like a rabbit and you wonder how he can eat so much and have so little exit. Most pigs go every day sometimes twice, but have the ability to hold it for many days. Know what is normal for your pig in his habits, the amount and size of your pigs droppings.

For the pig that is holding it and not used to riding in the car, most will defecate as soon as you take them for a ride around the block.

There is a difference between the pig that is being stubborn and not wanting to go potty from the constipated pig. The constipated pig will be straining to go potty.

Keeping healthy bowel action means keeping plenty of fresh fiber (grazing or fresh greens) and adequate water in their diet.This does not mean making them drink their pellets like soup, but encouraging them to drink more water by adding just a little...and I mean just a little fruit juice to their water and making sure that your pig chow is high in fiber. If your pig chow isn't high in fiber you can just a couple of scoops of Piggy Lax daily.

Pigs that don’t drink plenty of water need additional foods containing it. Just a few foods that are high in water content are: Watermelon, Strawberries, Cantaloupe, Cucumber, Peaches, Lettuce, Celery & Zucchini. It's also a good idea to keep a can of pumpkin in the pantry as it helps ease digestion.

If the constipation turns out to be an obstruction then surgery is required. This is rare with outdoor pigs but way too common in house-pigs who ingest carpet and blanket fibers which are not digestible and build up in the colon as solid masses. These pigs are usually off their feed and have painful abdomens. They should see a vet ASAP.

The older the pig the more likely they are to sleep most of the day and thus they are not active. Here the pigs are made to get up twice a day for meals and potty. It might not be a lot of walking, but some is better than none. Get those older pigs up and moving about at least twice a day.

Teeth and Tusks In The Mini Pig

Teeth

Pigs are born with 8 teeth and the rest of the baby teeth erupt by 3 months of age. At about 5 months of age the permanent teeth will start coming in and will continue until 18-20 months of age. Be sure to watch for and save those baby teeth for the tooth fairy. Teething can be uncomfortable for your pig so you may hear him grinding his teeth occasionally and/or wanting something to chew on during this time.

Provided by:  The Veterinary Journal for  Miniature Pets

Grinding Teeth

Yes, pigs will grind their teeth for a variety of reasons. Most will do it when teething, others do it to keep those tusks sharp. Or, he could be a little distressed. It comes with the territory.

Our pigs tend to have lower front teeth that will stick out farther than their upper teeth. This is called an undershot bite and is normal.

Clyde showing off his undershot bite and tusks.

Teeth cleaning to prevent decay is desirable, but not essential.  I have never done it here as I like having ten fingers. Others use a soft child's toothbrush or simply put some toothpaste on their finger and let the pig eat it. Pigs are prone to tooth decay because of their love for food, so care should be given when feeding sweets and fruits which are loaded with calories and sugar thus leading to cavities. However, a close examination of the teeth and jaw for signs of abscesses, especially in older pigs, is essential.

This is a molar from Hansel who is 18. You are seeing the top and bottom of it.

The molar above is from Hansel who is 18. I actually watched as he spit it out after dinner one evening. It was at least a good 2 weeks before he could get the hang of eating without it and he wanted only soft food and smaller pieces of his nightly treat. Thankfully no abscesses.

Tusks

Do all pigs grow tusks? Yes, all pigs grow tusks. This, of course, includes potbelly pigs. Female pot bellied pigs grow small tusks that rarely get large enough to stick out of their mouth. In fact they usually look like the rest of their teeth. Neutered males will have a nice set of tusks that usually grow large enough to protrude from the mouth. This will start to happen at about two to three years of age.

Nicholas is just a little over a year old and you can see his tusks just starting to show.

As our pigs age, tusk growth slows. Growth is driven by testosterone in early life.

This is Harley at age 17 and no tusk trims needed in the last 7 years.

Tusks need not be trimmed unless they are causing a problem for the pig or you. NEVER let anyone trim the tusks if the pig is awake and screaming. He can accidentally inhale the tusk. Tusk trimming is best done by your vet while using Isoflurane gas anesthesia. IF you are like most of us and have a mobile vet ask them about using Midazolam if necessary. This is a mild sedative which is very safe and the pig never really goes "under", just dozy and wakes slowly and naturally. NOTE: You will need to know your pigs weight (NO guessing) so that the correct amount can be given. It is not necessary to put the pig under...most vets are able to trim the tusks while the pig is flipped for his hoof trim.

Most vets will use what is called a Gigli Wire which is like a saw to cut the tusk off. Make sure that at least 1/2 inch or more of tusk is left. The gums have a tendency to become infected if the tusk is trimmed to close to the gum line. Also, DO NOT have anyone remove the tusks! They are part of the jawbone and removal will cause serious problems! Again, this is definitely a job for a vet or experienced trimmer... anesthesia may be required.

Tusks will continue to grow for the life of the pig. They are the top and bottom canines and both curve upwards. In the wild the tusks wear down or break off, however, this isn't likely with the pet pig. Clyde was one of those pigs that never needed a tusk trim and was neutered at about 8-12 months of age. He was constantly grinding them...they were nice and sharp, but short enough at the same time not to cause any issues.

Just a few of the tusks removed from a couple of my boys over the years.

As you can see from the picture above I like to let the tusks grow until they start to be a problem. Porky's were just starting to go into his cheek when I was looking for a new vet. He was a bit of a challenge being 205lbs, but with a little Telazol the vet and her assistant were able to safely trim them back and we are now good for another couple of years. Porky was up and his normal self in about 30-60 minutes. NOTE: I am not fond of injectables, but there is a time and place for them and this was one of them. Porky ended up sitting on the syringe with needle in his butt. Vet guessed that he had received half of what she was planning to give him...and it ended up being the right amount for him. He was a little drunk /wobbly after the trimming, but able to stand on all 4's after about 30-60 minutes of a good nap.

Can the tusks be removed? NO, they should never be removed as they are part of the jaw. Tusks are not teeth. The root of the tusk is deep in the jaw. Removing a tusk is dangerous, expensive and painful, because the jaw must be broken to remove the root. Normally this surgery is done only when there's a medically necessary reason (cancer or deep infection). Most vets won’t do it. If a vet says he will remove the tusks...look for another vet. The blood supply and nerves are below the gum line so they can be trimmed down, but never to the gum line. Always make sure that at least 1/2 inch or more is left. Cutting all the way to the gum line can lead to other issues like a abscess. Tusks are NOT TEETH and will grow for the pigs whole life. Don't confuse the word "removed" with "trimmed". They mean two different things.

Bathing the Pet Pig

Pigs are naturally very clean animals, with a tendency to dry skin. Due to the nature of their dry skin, with less body oils than other pets like cats and dogs, they normally do not have a body odor, even when wet. Smelling an odor from your neutered pet pig can usually be attributed to something in their environment.

Pigs have a natural love of water, but piglets show some concern when the water is running from the kitchen or bathroom tap. Begin familiarizing your piglet with bath time as soon it feels secure in your home. The best method is to place a rubber mat in the bottom of the tub or sink if you pig is still very little. Run a couple of inches of warm water in the tub. Float a few of your piglet’s favorite treats like cheerios, apple pieces or lettuce on the water, and put your piglet into the tub. Allow your piglet time to become acquainted with its new surroundings and at the same time, play or nibble on its floating treats. An alternative to floating treats is smearing some peanut butter on the side of the tub.

Then with a small brush or a round ball type plastic pot scrubber, begin to rub your piglet as it plays in the water. After the pig begins to enjoy the experience, it is time to apply the water and shampoo. Do not use baby shampoo or dog or cat shampoo. These types of shampoos can cause your pig’s skin to become too dry. Ultra Shampoo has excellent cleansing properties, softens the skin and reduces or eliminates dandruff-like scaly dermatitis. Should your pig’s white hair begin to look dingy, Whiter ‘N White will lighten and brighten the white hair as it removes stains and discolorations. Micro-Mist is a revitalizing humectant mist designed to deliver long lasting moisture factors to the hair shafts and skin of your pig and can be applied between shampoos.

Charleigh during her bath with Ultra Shampoo and after. Doesn't she look great?

Be sure to remove the treats prior to applying the shampoo. After a good shampoo lathering and a thorough scrubbing to remove dead skin from your piglet, use a plastic cup to rinse the shampoo from your pet. Should the water become very dirty, let the dirty water out and slowly refill the tub with clean water. Remember, in most cases, the sound of running water is frightening your piglet. As the piglet ages and gains more experience with bath time, it is possible to use a spray device attached to the faucet of your tub to rinse your pig.

Bath time for the older, larger and more experienced pig is done in a very similar fashion. Use a rubber mat in the tub so the pig will not slip, apply shampoo, vigorously rub to get the all the dead skin off, rinse by means of an attached sprayer and apply Micro Conditioner, a moisture intensified crème rinse, formulated for normal, dry or sensitive skin. This product leaves your pig’s hair coat silky and lustrous.

Your concern for the older pig is exactly how the pig gets in and out of the bathtub. If your pig is too large to be picked up, help your pig in by placing its front legs on the tub’s edge and then lift your pig’s back legs up and over. You can use the same procedure when helping your pet out. An excellent alternative to the bathtub for the larger, mature potbellied pig is a walk-in shower or an outdoor sun heated child’s wading pool. There is another alternative to the wet shampoo, Fresh N Clean Dry Shampoo and Deodorizer. This is product provides you an all season method for making your pig fresh and clean without a perfume smell.

Remember, wash your pig with soap based on the condition of its skin. Over bathing with soap can contribute to your pig’s naturally dry skin. Do not apply external oils to your pig. Oils will contribute to your pig’s skin retaining unwanted dirt and will promote the growth of more bacteria, which can cause your pig to smell and to have the need for more frequent bathing and more dry skin problems.    
     
by Kathleen Myers for Healthy Pigs

Does Your Pig Hibernate? Behavioral patterns during the winter.

Strange as it sounds it sometimes appears to be the case around here, we notice a definite change in temperament and response in the pigs during the winter months, or when it has been nice and temps drop again. Even the house pigs are affected to a certain degree.

This year we have heard from numerous folks with indoor pigs that seem to be filling the affects. We know it affects the outdoor pigs as we have watched them for the last seven or eight winters. There is very little activity, a little more arguing and growling among themselves and a tendency to not even particularly like people.

This is not too hard to understand as some of us are cranky and crabby during the winter months also, or at least I am. A week without sunshine and I am hard to live with.

Harley Hog trying to decide if he wants to come outside or not.

With these pigs however, it is almost like a semi-hibernation. They sleep most of the time, are less interested in anything going on around them, and only seem to come alive at feed time and even then it is not to the same degree as the rest of the year. They do not do the walking around the feed pans, the butting each other, and it sometimes seems to be an aggravation to them for us to bother them at all.

During the rest of the year we are met with squeals of delight and happy happy sounds. during the winter they grumble at us, make low throaty noises and really don't care to be bothered with a belly rub or pat on the side. Pigs that have never swiped at us before will do it in the winter months and pigs that already have a reputation for it do it more often than I care to remember during the winter months.

Whether they are in a heated house or one full of straw they still show signs of winter depression. They are crabby and irritable and generally hard to get along with. They seem to want nothing from us other than their dinner and their blankets to lay in and cover up with.

Making them go out to do their business becomes a real battle of wills and one that we don't always win. You would think that they would appreciate the fact that we shovel their walk out and "business areas" and keep it clean of snow before we ask them to make the dreaded trip outdoors, but that does not seem to be the case.

They also appear to not care as much about attention and fun things that they may have enjoyed the rest of the year. All in all it makes for a real strange relationship for a few months.

Maybe the answer is for us to semi-hibernate with them, but then who would shovel the snow? How many times can we apologize for it being winter again? Oh well, we have the consolation of knowing that is won't last forever, even if it seems like it when it is happening.

Nothing, but putting up with a whole bunch of crabby, complaining, grouchy pigs for a few months could make us people appreciate Spring, RIGHT?